http://mhmremodeling.comRSS feeds for mhmremodeling.com60http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/58/Shower-head-installation.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=58http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=58&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/58/Shower-head-installation.aspx   Brad Staggs shows how to raise a showerhead to a more suitable height by installing a showerhead adapter kit. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I   Q: My showerhead hangs too low. Do I have to install new pipes to replace it? A: (from DIY home-improvement expert and licensed contractor Brad Staggs) With a hand-held shower adapter, you can have the best of both worlds: a fixed showerhead and a hand-held extender that allows you to put the spray right where you want it (figure A). Here are instructions and tips on installation. Materials: showerhead adapter kit adjustable pliers Teflon® tape masking tape     Steps:   Tip: Before you begin work in your bathtub, place an old towel in the bottom of the tub to prevent the porcelain or fiberglass surface from being scratched while you work.     The adapter kit comes with a diverter device (figure B) that attaches to the shower stem and can direct the water in either of two directions. This enables you to use two showerheads from a single water source.     Remove the old showerhead using adjustable pliers. You may want to wrap the jaws of the pliers with tape (figure C) to prevent them from marring the chrome.     Using a rag (and, if necessary, some paint thinner) to remove any old plumber's putty or Teflon tape left on the threads of the shower stem.     With the old showerhead removed, you can attach the diverter. It's important to make sure that the supplied washer (figure D) is placed in the neck of the diverter according to the directions that come with the kit.     Apply some new Teflon tape to the threads of the shower stem (figure E) to help prevent water leakage. Important: When applying Teflon tape, wrap it in the direction that the fixture will be tightened. If the tape is wrapped in the opposite direction, it may tear when the fixture is installed on the threads, and thus will be ineffective at preventing leaks.     With the Teflon tape applied, attach the diverter to the shower stem (figure F), and hand-tighten it. Carefully tighten the connection using a wrench if necessary, but avoid overtightening this (or any) plumbing fixture.     Making certain that the appropriate washer is installed in the neck of the fixed showerhead, attach the head to one neck of the diverter and tighten it down.     With the showerhead installed, apply Teflon tape to the other neck of the diverter (figure G).     Attach the hose-extender attachment -- with the hand-held shower attachment -- to the free neck of the diverter (figure H).     An attachment that fastens to the shower stem holds the hand-held attachment when it's not in use, and allows it to be positioned as a secondary fixed head (figure I).           MikeSun, 28 Dec 2008 15:59:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:58http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/57/DIY-toilet-installation.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=57http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=57&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/57/DIY-toilet-installation.aspxIf you're upgrading your bathroom, you may want to install a new toilet, or--more accurately--a water closet. Modern toilets come in a variety of styles, are easy to install and use very little water. Note: Most states now require that both new and replacement toilets use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush. Materials: Open-end wrench, sized to existing closet bolts Needle-nose pliers Adjustable wrench Flat-head screwdriver Two pairs of slip-joint pliers (large and small pairs, if possible) Sponge Rag Gloves One- or two-piece water closet Good-quality toilet seat Toilet bolts to hold toilet to flange (may be purchased separately if not provided with toilet) Flexible toilet supply tube Wax seal (deep-seat or standard)   Shut off the water supply to the toilet by firmly closing the supply valve. Remove the tank lid, and flush the toilet, holding the lever down to let as much water drain from the tank as possible. Use a sponge to soak up the excess water in the tank and a plunger to force as much water as possible out of the bowl. Pop the caps from the base of the bowl. Remove the nuts with an open-ended wrench. You may need to hold the bolt still with a pair of needle-nose pliers (figure A). If the nut is rusted to the bolt, you may have to break it off. Disconnect the toilet supply tube from the toilet stop. Shift the toilet back and forth while lifting it off the flange. If you're working alone, remove the tank by unbolting it from the bowl before you attempt lifting the toilet from the flange. To prevent sewer gases from entering your bathroom, stuff a rag into the drain opening. Scrape all the old wax from the flange, and check for cracks. If the flange is cracked, replace it. Be sure to wear gloves when scraping off the old wax. Installing the Toilet Bolts and Wax Seal   Place the new toilet bolts in the flange with the bolts pointing up. Remove the rag from the toilet drain, and place a wax seal on the flange. Squeeze enough wax onto the bolts to hold them upright. Use a deep-seat wax seal when replacing older water toilets. Attaching the Tank to the Bowl Set the tank seal in place. Place the tank on the bowl. Drop the tank bolts through the appropriate holes. Tighten the bolts until the tank doesn't wobble. Be sure not to overtighten the bolts: you could crack the porcelain. If you're working alone, attach the bowl to the floor before installing the tank. Installing the New Water Closet Slowly set the tank and bowl assembly onto the wax seal, lining up the bolts with the mounting holes in the bowl. Tighten the nuts onto the bowl until the assembly doesn't wobble. Reconnect the toilet supply tube to the tank. Refill the tank, adjust the water level, and check for leaks. Attach the seat using the seat bolts provided. MikeSat, 27 Dec 2008 21:59:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:57http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/54/Bathroom-Ventilation.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=54http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=54&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/54/Bathroom-Ventilation.aspxBathroom Ventilation The only proper source of water in the bathroom is the water supply lines. Any other source is a problem that must be eliminated. Chief among these is condensation.   Condensation is a continual problem wherever there are wide variances in temperatures present, such as the hot water of a shower or whirlpool, or the heat from a steam or sauna unit. Vaporized water will condense on any cold surface and can potentially cause damage.   To prevent this, the super-saturated air must be removed from the room. Building codes dictate that this air should be vented to the outside. The ventilation fan serves this purpose.   Ventilation fans are available in a wide variety of sizes and with a number of options.   Size The volume of the room that is to be ventilated determines the size of the fan needed.   The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI), a trade association representing the manufacturers of 95% of the residential fans in North America recommends that a bathroom exhaust fan be able to deliver eight air changes per hour (ACH). Most building codes only require a minimum airflow of 50 cfm from a bathroom, which has a capacity of providing eight ACH for a room 8 ft. x 6 ft. with an 8 ft. ceiling.   To calculate the cfm rating of the fan you should select, follow the following steps:   Step1: Calculate the cubic feet of your bathroom (length x width x height)   Step2: Divide by 60 (the number of minutes in an hour)   Step3: Multiply the result by 8 (the number of recommended air changes per hour)   For bathrooms above 100 square feet in area, HVI recommends a ventilation rate based on the number and type of fixtures present, according to the following table:   Toilet Shower Bath Tub Whirlpool   50 CFM 50 CFM 50 CFM 100 CFM   This table is cumulative, so that a room containing all of these fixtures would require a fan rated at 250 CFM, but usually multiple fans are installed to achieve the desired results.   Guidelines Steam showers it is best to have a separate fan in the steam room that can be turned on after use.   Tub/Shower Typically the exhaust points are located over or near the shower or tub.   Enclosed toilet rooms must have an operable window or a fan for ventilation. With windows closed, exhausted air will be replaced by makeup air from adjacent rooms or forced air system registers.   HVI recommends that the exhaust points be located away from the supply, thereby pulling the supply air through the room. Bathroom doors need to be undercut to allow makeup air to enter the room.   Installation Most fans are rated between 50 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and 250 CFM. These fans are mounted in the ceiling.   Larger fans can be installed in the wall or ceiling. These fans use ball bearings motors and are not as prone to lubrication concerns when placed in the wall.   Smaller ceiling fans up to 110 cfm generally should not be used in the wall due to concerns about orientation of the motor for bearing lubrication and the built-in damper on the discharge side of the fan.   If these fans must be installed in the wall, the duct needs to be pointed up to allow the damper to operate. However, the bearings may not last as long due to insufficient oil flow within the sleeve bearings.   Fans installed above kitchen ranges must be listed for that application by UL and must be designed to handle the grease in the exhaust air and the high temperatures of a potential grease fire. Most bathroom ventilation fans are not suitable for this purpose.   HVI recommends that the fan be left on for 20 minutes after use of the bathroom. A timer is a good solution, allowing the fan to turn off automatically at the proper time. Alternatively, ventilation may also be provided on a continuous basis at other rates. This may complement the use of fans to provide the HVI recommended rates   The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) publishes a directory of certified products. (Call HVI in Chicago at 1-847-526-2010 to request a copy).   Virtually all fans lose flow as the static pressure (resistance) increases.   This is measured in inches of water gauge, expressed as 0.1" w.g. or 0.25" w.g. (equal to a column of water one-tenth or one-quarter of an inch tall).   Most bath fans operate at between 0.1" and 0.25" w.g. The Home Ventilating Institute rates almost all bath fans at 0.1" w.g.   Undersized ducts or tight roof caps can increase this static pressure to 0.5" or 0.7" w.g. and there will be virtually no flow.   Most fans are designed for use with a four-inch duct. Avoid using three-inch duct; this creates very high static pressure, reduces airflow dramatically, and over the long term, reduces motor life in the fan. The ability of a fan to overcome static pressure is shown in the fan curve for a particular fan. In the example below, note how the airflow drops off as the static pressure increases.   The selection of the ducting for a particular installation can drastically affect the performance of a fan. As the duct run gets longer, the static pressure increases and the flow decreases. This limits the size of room that a particular fan can reasonably ventilate.   Sones The loudness of a ventilation fan is measured in Sones. The sone is an internationally recognized measurement of sound output.   Sones translate decibel readings into numbers that correspond to the way people sense loudness.   Sones follow a 'linear' scale, like inches. Double the sones is double the loudness.   In contrast, decibels follow a 'logarithmic' scale which is a multiplying of numbers instead of adding.   Sones readings offer easy, quick and accurate comparisons for laymen and engineers. In technical terms, the sone is equal in loudness to a pure 1,000 cycles per second at tone at 40 decibels above the listener's threshold of hearing.   In layman's terms, one sone is equivalent to the sound of a quiet refrigerator in a quiet kitchen (source HVI). The loudness of most fans ranges between .3 Sones and 2.5 Sones, with the average around 1.0.  MikeFri, 26 Dec 2008 03:13:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:54http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/53/How-to-select-faucets.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=53http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=53&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/53/How-to-select-faucets.aspx     Faucets   Materials Faucets display an almost infinite variety of styles and finishes.   They can be purchased in polished chrome, polished and antique brass, polished and satin nickel, gold, acrylic enamels of various colors, stainless steel, copper and mix-and-match combinations. Kitchen faucets come in single lever, pullout spray, high arch, offset handles, and so on. Bathroom faucets offer a similar set of alternatives. It's impossible to describe all the options here. Our best advice is to visit the websites of our various manufacturers to get a feel for what you like and then come to our showroom and see them first hand.   With all types of faucets, look for quality. Avoid lightweight faucets with plastic integral parts and those that use washers to control the flow of water. An Inexpensive unit may look as good as the more expensive ones, but it will not last as long. The money you save buying it will just go to the plumber who has to replace it in a few years. The best faucets offer effortless operation and a long-lasting finish.   Styles and Types Faucets come in all shapes and sizes. Some things you need to consider when making your selections are: 1) the type of handles you prefer (one or two) 2) the style you prefer 3) the finish you want 4) the requirements of the sink or lavatory it will be installed in 5) how much you want to spend. In the case of kitchen faucets, consumers have more options today than ever before.   Faucets should be chosen to complement the architectural theme presented by the cabinetry and appliances. Some models are reminiscent of an old-fashioned pump, while others appear to be an example of modern sculpture. But a sweeping contemporary model would look out of place in a Colonial kitchen.   Likewise, faucets should fit into the overall color scheme. Most people opt to match the faucet to the sink, but one should look beyond to the other elements to make sure they all go together.   Single-handle faucets have the advantage of practicality, but two-handled faucets tend to be more stylish. The spout's height and reach should be considered, and the sink that you choose to go with it affects these factors. The spout should be long enough to reach into a sink's multiple basins and high enough to provide ample working room. High arch or gooseneck spouts are convenient for large pots and shallower sinks, but can overwhelm a compact kitchen setting. Pullout sprayhead spouts have grown to be quite popular, but look for a retractable double-interlock hose that won't kink.   Some manufacturers sell faucet bodies and handles separately. This is done so that the homeowner can mix and match colors or finishes to suit their personal taste. However, if the buyer is not aware of this, he could buy an incomplete faucet thinking he was getting a bargain price, only having to go back to buy the rest of the faucet later.   One point of note: Most lavatory faucets to include the drain, but most kitchen faucets do not. The important thing you'll need to know when choosing a bathroom lavatory faucet are the design of the sink or countertop in which it will be mounted. You will need to know whether you need a single hole design, a 4 inch mini-spread or centerset, or an 8 inch widespread.   For tubs and whirlpools you'll need to know whether your installation calls for a wall-mount, a deck mount, and whether a handspray will be required.   Shower faucets should be discussed with your plumber or designer; today's styles are so varied and the options so great that it's vital to understand what effect is desired or what supply lines will be available in order to determine the specific valves that will be needed.   Please read our articles on shower valves. Don't order shower valves without a clear understanding of your requirements. In addition, since all controls will be in the same room, it's best if they match in color and style.   Warranties To protect warranty claims, keep a copy of your receipt. Many warranties apply only to the original purchaser and you have to be able to prove that you bought it.   Finish warranties vary greatly. For example, Newport Brass offers 33 different metal finishes in their line of faucets. As with most manufacturers, their PVD line carries a lifetime warranty on the finish; all others carry a 10 year warranty to original purchaser except for a few models that are intended to appear rustic by design. These have no finish warranty.   Some products carry two to five year warranties on various components, such as hoses. Many offer extended warranties on the faucet bodies, although this does not apply to what may be considered to be routine repairs. Other models carry full limited lifetime warranties. Please check with the manufacturer on any model you may wish to purchase.   NOTE: Many faucets require additional trim to complete the faucet or faucet handle set. By allowing you to chose your own handles and trim, you have greater choices in the design and appearance of your faucet. Also, different faucet manufactures and different faucet types are purchased differently. For example, when purchasing a Moen Inspirations faucet, you must select the rough-in valve, the faucet body, the faucet accent, and the faucet accent trim pieces. Other Moen faucets might only require a handle, or come complete. Delta faucets are purchased in a similar manner.   Be absolutely certain that you buy your faucet and sink at the same time and from the same source to make sure they are compatible. The sink must be drilled or have holes punched out to match the faucet you buy, and not all units will go together. Some specialty sinks require special faucets that match them. Cultured marble tops need faucets with a longer spout to fit correctly because of the setback. Never 'assume' that everything will fit, and always ask your salesperson to verify that they will work together.   Drains are included with bath faucets but not kitchen faucets. The drain and the basket strainer must be bought separately with kitchen faucets and they must match, so they should also be bought together.   Options to Consider Try to anticipate your needs before you buy, but also don't forget to consider more practical matters. For example, highly polished fixtures are very attractive when kept clean and shiny, but they do tend to show water spots more readily. Lavatory faucets on 8" centers are easier to clean than those on 4", as are single lever faucets over two-handle units.   MikeWed, 24 Dec 2008 00:21:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:53http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/51/bathroom-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=51http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=51&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/51/bathroom-tips.aspxBy Sarah Van Arsdale One of the problems with many home decorating magazines is that they display photos of rooms in houses much larger and more elegant than anything an average reader will ever be decorating. Even for professional decorators, many projects involve improving rooms that are challenging, by being too dark, too small, or by having oddly-slanted ceilings. The bathroom we've chosen is faced with all three challenges, and yet the decorator has created a bright, interesting room that really comes together. Let's look at this room with the Sheffield Guidelines to Interior Design, function, mood, and harmony. First, the principal function of a bathroom is clear: it's there to take care of one's basic hygienic needs. And in those terms, this bathroom clearly can do its job, with all the necessary facilities. There is even an extra countertop and cabinet, in the left rear of the room, which is perfect for applying cosmetics, as the natural light from the skylight provides the right illumination, and the area is set off from the tub and sink. Tip: Whenever you look at the function of a room, try to seek out the more subtle functions as well. For many people, the bathroom also provides one of the only places in the home that assures utter privacy. While the kids are clamoring in the living room and the phone is ringing and the TV is blaring, this bathroom offers a pleasant place to hide and relax for a few moments.   That function of relaxation is evidenced quite practically in the tub. Notice, first of all, the choice to have a full bath instead of a stall shower. A stall shower would have provided more room, but then the luxury of the tub would have been lost. And this isn't just any tub; this one is complete with a pillow molded into the tub, promising ultimate comfort and relaxation. Notice too, how the soft, natural light is used here, which not only speaks to the function of the room as a place for relaxation, but also speaks to the mood of the room. The mood is relaxed, tidy, and feminine without being fussy. The obvious source of the gentle light is from the oblong skylight over the commode, but the wall of glass bricks at the tub also lets in a huge splash of light without sacrificing privacy. This milky, filtered light contributes to the dreaminess of the room. Finally, the room's harmony further contributes to the mood. The color choice of blue plays on the idea of the bath as being a place of water - and we all know the relaxing properties of water, whether you're sitting by the surf on a quiet beach, picnicking beside a waterfall, or soaking in a tub at home. The tile floor, which continues up the side of the tub, the countertop, and the shower curtain all play with the shades of turquoise, and then the green plant on the counter provides yet another sea-side color, the deep green of seaweed. But notice, too, that while there is a subtle water theme here, it isn't over-played with a lot of knickknacks that would detract from the clean, almost spare look. Overall, this room is a soothing, cooling retreat from the cares of the world, a bathroom to which anyone would be glad to retreat for a moment's peace.MikeSun, 21 Dec 2008 02:17:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:51http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/50/Tips-for-Hanging-Christmas-Lights.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=50http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=50&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/50/Tips-for-Hanging-Christmas-Lights.aspx Tips for Hanging Christmas Lights Want an easier way to decorate your house with Christmas lights? Here are some bright ideas on how to hang Christmas lights safely and easily. Skill level: Beginner. Estimated time: 2 hours Outlining your eaves, windows, and shrubbery with decorative lights is a sure way to enliven your home for the holidays. But hanging outdoor holiday lights can be less than a cheerful experience, particularly when you're faced with a teetering ladder and tangles of light strings that don't work. Here's how to make the job go safely and as smooth as a warm eggnog. Materials Several strings of Christmas lights Light clips for gutters and shingles Nail-on wire clips Heavy-duty extension cords Tools Tape measure Long-nose pliers Ladder Hammer Overview During the holiday season, you'll discover many types of decorative lights at home improvement centers, from conventional mini-lights and icicle lights to mesh-style light strings made for wrapping tree trunks. MikeFri, 19 Dec 2008 12:30:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:50http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/48/Tip-of-the-day.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=48http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=48&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/48/Tip-of-the-day.aspxUse ice to keep the blades in your garbage disposal sharp. One trey or 8 cubes per month should do it. MikeWed, 17 Dec 2008 12:31:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:48http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/47/Tips-on-going-green.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=47http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=47&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/47/Tips-on-going-green.aspxThe Green House Did you know that your home can be a greater source of pollution than your car? In fact, 16 percent of U.S. greenhouse gas emissions are generated from the energy used in houses nationwide. Energy used in our homes often comes from the burning of fossil fuels at power plants, which contributes to smog, acid rain, and global warming. Simply put, the less energy we use in our homes, the less air pollution we generate. Owning or renting a "green" home is good for your health, your wallet and our environment. The rewards of a Green Home include: Uses less energy, water and natural resources   Creates less waste   Has lower utility bills   Associated with fewer asthma attacks   At lower risk for mold   Is affordable   Beyond the health and environmental benefits of living in a green home, many local and state governments, utility companies and other entities across the country offer rebates, tax breaks and other incentives for adding eco-friendly elements to your life.   Related Articles in this Series:     Trends - The Green House     How Do You Define Green?     Bottom Line - How Much Green Does it Take?     Choosing Green Fixtures & Appliances  MikeTue, 16 Dec 2008 12:28:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:47http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/45/Keys-to-a-successful-remodel.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=45http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=45&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/45/Keys-to-a-successful-remodel.aspx Keep your remodeling project on track and within budget with these tips: Do your homework. When asked what they would have done differently, in searching for a top contractor respondents most often said they would have done more research beforehand, chosen their contractor more carefully, or bought different materials. To avoid those regrets, get at least three bids with three or more references from each, and interview or visit references before signing. Never jump for the cheapest bid. And with any quote, read the contract carefully, especially any fine print. The two big home centers, for example, demand full payment up front unless state laws forbid it. Keep a lid on costs. Staying within budget seemed to be a common complaint across the board. Both big home centers say they calculate some installation costs to offer preset prices and stick to them unless something happens that's outside their control--for instance, should the contractor discover termite damage, leaking pipes, or dry rot once a wall is opened up. For other installations, such as cabinets, they require an on-site visit before giving a price--with the same provision for unexpected conditions. Nevertheless, only about 45 percent of respondents said contractors from home centers were excellent at keeping costs down vs. about 55 percent for the rest. Expect surprises. No matter whom you hire, unavoidable surprises can still happen once even top contractors see what's behind or beneath whatever they need to remove. So be sure your contract includes provision for a "change order" clause--an addendum that specifically details what kind of changes require your approval before they can be made. That agreement should state how the extra work would affect overall costs and the finish date. The National Association of the Remodeling Industry suggests you put 10 percent to 20 percent of total funds into a reserve fund for unanticipated costs--at the very least, for redecorating afterward. And don't create surprise expenses. A top contractor will work with you to settle early on what you want, and stick to it. Stay involved and available. Many readers felt they weren't kept in the loop about the job's progress. To keep that from happening to you, set a specific time each day to speak with your crew's supervisor. Be sure that you have his cell-phone number and that he has yours. Inspect the day's work every evening. Mention concerns immediately to help keep problems small and resolvable. The longer you wait, the more difficult and expensive the problem can become for even a top contractor to fix. MikeMon, 15 Dec 2008 12:42:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:45http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/43/Safety-Grab-Bars.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=43http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=43&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/43/Safety-Grab-Bars.aspxSafety (Grab) Bars Grab bars are often thought of as only for the elderly, but all people can use something to grab onto in case of loss of footing. Falls in the bathroom are a leading cause of injury. Grab bars can help reduce the risk of accidents.   Grab bars around the bathtub are a necessity for safety. These bars should be institutional-grade, stainless steel and installed according to the manufacturer's directions for firm, solid support.   These bars are expensive, but under no circumstance should towel rods or improperly installed grab bars be used as bathtub aids. They will not support a person who loses balance.   Their position will be determined by the type of tub, its location and the needs of the individual. A physical or occupational therapist can help locate the grab bar(s) for maximum efficiency, based on the user's height, reach and how he gets in and out of the tub.     Diagonally placed grab bars are not recommended because the hand may slide and if footing is not secure, falls are more likely.   A person getting into the typical American bathtub (14" to 17" deep) tends to maintain an upright position while stepping into the tub.   A vertical grab bar firmly anchored to the wall at the foot of the tub (The foot of the tub is the end where the water faucets and drain are located) will greatly add to the safety of this maneuver. This vertical bar should be about 32 inches long, and placed near the outer tub edge.   If the tub is free-standing (not closed on 3-sides as in an alcove) and the end wall is too far for grab bar placement, a vertically placed pole on the access side of the tub may be used. This pole should be about 1-1/2-inch diameter and extend from floor to ceiling.   The pole should be positioned between 1'3" and 1'6" from the end of the tub and close enough to the access side to reach from a seated position. It also can be used to grasp with one hand while operating the water controlsMikeSun, 14 Dec 2008 15:40:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:43http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/40/Wallpaper-removal-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=40http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=40&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/40/Wallpaper-removal-tips.aspx Gadgets and gels can help remove wallpaper, but mostly you'll need hard work and patience. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D RELATED LINKS Learn about how to remove wallpaper Q: There's some old wallpaper that came with the house I just bought, and it's about as ugly as wallpaper comes. I'd love some tips on removing it so I don't remove the wall with it. A: (Brad Staggs, Ask DIY Home Repair) There are a lot of different ways to get wallpaper off and a variety of products you can use (figure A). But what you're essentially trying to do is to deactivate the adhesive that holds the paper backing onto the wall. Here's how to proceed: Materials: Paper Tiger wallpaper-perforating tool Gel wallpaper-removal solvent, or warm water mixed with vinegar in a spray bottle Scraping tool Drop cloth Safety glasses Protective gloves such as latex Safety alert: Always wear safety glasses when working with solvents on a wall, and if you have sensitive skin, wear gloves (but not latex gloves if that's what you're sensitive to!).   Remove the face plates on the walls you'll be working with, and cover the outlets with electric tape to protect them from liquids (figure B). Also put a drop cloth down to protect the carpet or floors.   If you're lucky, some paper may already be loose, and you can just start peeling. Otherwise, consider using a gadget known as the Paper Tiger (figure C). It's a roller, on the underside of which are little teeth that will perforate the wallpaper (figure D). That allows any solvent you use to get behind the paper and dissolve the adhesive more readily. Nobody's perfect: Be careful not to gouge the wall behind the paper with any perforating or scraping tools. If you do perforate the wall, fill the nicks with spackle.   Apply the gel or other commercial solvent with a paintbrush, and give it some time to soak in and loosen the wallpaper (the label should specify how long). Working smarter: A less expensive solvent option is warm water mixed with a few tablespoons of vinegar in a spray bottle.   After the solvent has a chance to soak in, start working at removal at a seam or edge of a perforation, scraping with a Paper Scraper, plastic spatula, plastic putty knife or drywall knife.   Keep applying the solvent and scraping until all the wallpaper is gone. MikeSun, 14 Dec 2008 02:49:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:40http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/39/Paint-brush-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=39http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=39&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/39/Paint-brush-tips.aspxQuality brushes can be a sizable investment. They are intended for use and re-use. A painting contractor may get years out of the right brush for the right job. I had a neighbor who had his fathers paint brush collection given to him as a bequest. That may be carried to an extreme, however discarding a $12 trim brush or a 4 inch wall brush worth $25 4 is  a waste.  After thorough cleaning always straighten the bristles with a paint brush comb. Then place the brush back in its cardboard keeper or wrap in kraft paper. Next, hang the brush up by the hole in the handle or lay it on it side not pushing its bristles against the edge of a draw or wall. When you do not store paint brushes properly, they will "finger" or "twist." Your brushes will also have curled tips that will be rendered incapable of satisfactory performance. Plus, you'll be ashamed to show them in public. Hang them on your workshop wall and be proud of them.  MikeFri, 12 Dec 2008 23:32:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:39http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/37/20-Plumbing-Dos-and-Donts.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=37http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=37&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/37/20-Plumbing-Dos-and-Donts.aspx20 Plumbing Do's and Don'ts DO Run water at full pressure when using disposer.   Periodically remove and clean all aerators.   Inspect and test toilets for leaks annually.   Open and close all cutoff valves twice a year.   Keep toilet seat down when not in use.   Check caulk line on walls around tubs and showers regularly.   Check inside edge of shower door track to make sure there are no leaks.   Shut off all outside valves in wintertime in cold climates.   Open sink cupboard doors on outside walls in severe cold weather.   Oil parts in toilet tanks that are above water level.   Open drain on water heater twice a year to remove sediment.   Spray oil or WD-40 on seldom used valves to prevent seizing.   Keep your plumber's phone number near the phone in case of emergency.   Turn off hot water system when leaving on vacation.   Teach children to always turn cold water on first and hot water off first.   Pour two or three gallons of boiling water down shower or tub drains once a month.   Insulate water pipes that may be exposed to freezing temperatures or wind.   Use a blow dryer or heat gun to thaw frozen pipes.   Keep warranty card handy on all appliances, including water heaters and softeners.   Have a diagram of your sewer system handy in case of emergency.   DON'T Put coffee grounds in your sink drains   Hang a knick-knack shelf over your toilet.   Pour hot water into toilet. It could crack the bowl.   Put any mechanical cleaning device in your toilet tank.   Throw disposable diapers in toilet.   Keep wastebaskets under sinks. Bumping drain pipes cause leaks.   Throw sanitary napkins in toilet.   Run the dishwasher if disposer is full of food waste.   Use drain cleaners containing lye.   Use toilet tank lid for a shelf.   Let children play in bathroom with small toys.   Hang a shelf for heavy objects over a sink.   Plant trees or large shrubs over sewer lines   Dig deep holes or trenches in your yard before locating water, gas, and sewer lines   Place cornhusks, artichokes, onionskins, celery, or other high-fiber material in a disposer.   Pour fats or cooking oils into your sink.   Leave garden hoses attached to the hose bib in winter.   Use open flames or torches to thaw frozen pipes.   Hire a plumber to do work without understanding precisely what he plans to do.   Leave water turned on to hoses for washing machines, dishwashers, and garden hoses when not in use.   MikeThu, 11 Dec 2008 23:09:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:37http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/35/Design-Tips-for-the-Bath.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=35http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=35&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/35/Design-Tips-for-the-Bath.aspxDesign Tips for the Bath: This is a partial list only and is provided as a courtesy to assist you in planning new bathrooms. Please consult a professional for the latest building codes and style trends.   Floorplan: In the overall layout, try not to make the toilet visible from outside the bathroom. It should also not be the first thing you see when entering the room. Allow at least 32" for all walking areas, including doorways   Room Size: Half-Bath (wash basin, toilet) minimum size is 16 sq. ft (4'x4')   Full Bath (wash basin, toilet, tub and/or shower) 36 - 40 sq. ft. (5'x8')   If a tub is to be included, one wall must be min. of 5 ft. to accommodate it. It is best to buy the tub before construction begins and have it built in.   If the toilet is to be in a separate room, that room must be ay least 36in. x 66in.   Be sure to include grab bars, lights, and ventilation.   Clearances: These are minimums. In all cases, more is better. - All fixtures must be at least 30 inches apart, center-to-center,   and 15 inches from the center to the nearest wall or obstruction. - You must provide a space 30x48 in. in front of a lavatory.   Up to 19 in. of the 48 can be under the lav if there is adequate knee space. - Leave 24 in. in front of a toilet or bidet. - Leave 30 in. space beside the full length of the tub.   Sink / Vanity: - Double bowl vanities require 60 to 72 in. of space. - Use a single bowl if two people are not expected to use the bathroom at the same time. - Standard vanity height is 30 inches.   Tall people will be more comfortable if the height is raised to 32 inches. - For right-handed people, install the bowl to the right side, for left-handed people, the left. - Given the option, choose a vanity with the most drawers.   Shower stalls: should be at least 32" x 32" but the trend is for larger showers, and the larger the better. If a swinging door is installed, it should swing outward to avoid someone being trapped inside. A bench or footrest should be provided, at least 12 inches deep or more. If no bench is provided, consider a footrest niche 14 to 18 inches off the floor depending on your height for washing or shaving legs. Make sure the valve is a pressure-balanced type to prevent scalding.   Safety: All floors must be of slip-resistant material. Bathroom floors are often wet. All electrical outlets must be protected with a ground-fault circuit interrupter and no switch can be within 60 inches of a water source. Install grab bars near toilets and tubs, and inside of shower units. Mount all grab bars into studs, not just drywall or tile. Mount two in the shower, one at the entrance and one at the water source. They should be angled at 45 degrees.   Shower: Include both a standard and a hand held showerhead in the shower. If you can only have one, make it a hand held unit mounted on an adjustable vertical pole. The shower valve should be able to be turned on outside the shower, with the spray aimed away from the entrance.   Tubs: - Tubs mounted in platforms should be no more than one step off the floor.   The step should be no more than 7 1/4 inches high and at least 10 inches deep. - Avoid sunken tubs as they often lead to accidents. - Tub or whirlpool faucets should be reachable from outside the tub. - Grab bars should be installed to provide safe access and egress. - Consider installing a hand held showerhead to make them easier to clean. - Be sure to provide for access to the plumbing and whirlpool motors,   even if it's inside a closet in an adjoining room.   Storage: Be sure to provide storage space near lavatories for toiletries, shampoos, and towels. Make sure if your plan includes a bidet that you provide a place for soap and towels close by. Tissue holders should be mounted 26 inches off the floor to the front of toilets.   Install adequate electrical outlets. Bathrooms typically use more than one expects. You should install an outlet on either side of the vanity.   Colors affect the perception of size in a room. Bathrooms are usually the smallest rooms in the house, and as such should usually contain less vibrant and overpowering colors. As their size grows, the boldness with which you choose the colors can increase. Too many colors in a confined space can be confusing to the eye. Try to maintain a theme and avoid too stark a contrast. Light walls and floors make a room seem larger. The same is true of clear shower door glass. Patterns made of small elements seem to push walls farther away.   Mirrors expand space in every direction. They should be used freely, the larger the better, but try to only install one on each wall to avoid visual confusion. Also glass block walls, windows and skylights make rooms seem bigger. Avoid vertical lines. They add height to a room, but reduce visual space. Horizontal rooms make a room seem larger.   Enclosed shelves reduce visual space. Open shelving can make a space seem bigger. Make sure all doors swing clear of fixtures.   Provide adequate ventilation to reduce condensation and moisture. Check local codes. A window may meet the code but a fan is better, and even better in the shower where most moisture arises.      MikeWed, 10 Dec 2008 23:25:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:35http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/31/Keeping-it-clean.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=31http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=31&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/31/Keeping-it-clean.aspxLiving With Your Selections   When selecting faucets, fixtures and countertops, many people forget about care and maintenance issues, until it is too late. For example, the new trend-setting glass counters and vessel styled lavatories may not be a wise choice for active households. While these items can be striking and modern looking, they are a challenge to keep clean and free of fingerprints, and they are more easily broken.   When making your choices, carefully consider the maintenance levels of the materials available, in addition to looks.   When selecting faucets, fixtures and coutnertops, many people forget about care and maintenance issues, until it is too late.   When making your choices, consider your lifestyle. For instance, the trendy glass counters and vessel styled lavatories may not be a wise choice for active households. While these items can be striking and modern looking, they are a challenge to keep clean and free of fingerprints, and they are more easily broken.   Always test any cleaning solution on an inconspicuous area before applying to the entire surface. Remember to rinse completely. Do not allow cleaners to sit or soak on surfaces; wipe immediately with a soft, dampened sponge or cloth. Do not use abrasive materials, brushes or scouring pads.   All cleaning products named below are available in local super markets Surface Cleaning Faucets   Cast Iron Sinks and Whirlpools/Tubs   Porcelain Sinks and Tubs   Stainless Steel Sinks   Corian Sinks and Counter Tops   China Sinks and Toilets   Acrylic Showers and Whirlpools/Tubs, Toilet Seats   Whirlpool, Hot Tub System Cleaning   Decorative Products, Shower Doors, Vanity Tops   Health & Safety Concerns Whirlpools, Hot Tubs & Bacterial Infections ... The danger is real, prevention is easy     Faucets Clean with mild soap and water or a mild liquid detergent. Products such as Windex® Original or Fantastik® All Purpose Cleaner are generally considered safe to use.   After every use or cleaning, it is always best to wipe dry with a soft cloth to prevent water spotting and mineral build-up. Faucet manufacturers recommend that you clean and wax regularly. You may use an aerosol furniture polish, appliance wax or auto paste wax for this purpose.   Do not use cleaners containing ammonia, bleach, abrasives, or other strong chemicals, as these can damage some faucet finishes.   Avoid products that state on the label that they remove tarnish and rust, and those containing hydrofluoric, hydrochloric and/or phosphoric acids or caustic agents.   Avoid industrial cleaners and abrasive cleaners, such as those used for toilet bowls, heavy-duty scrub sponges or scouring pads. These will scratch and damage the finish.   Hardwater Deposits: To remove hard water deposits and soap scum, use a 50/50 mix of vinegar or liquid Lysol® All Purpose Cleaner and water. For stubborn stains and/or mineral deposits, a mild abrasive cleaner can be used. Current examples of mild abrasive cleaners are Bon-Ami, Barkeeper's Friend, or Soft Scrub without bleach.   Gold-plated faucets or accessories should only be cleaned with warm water, and wiped dry or it will form unsightly water deposits.   Learn more about Faucet Materials/Finishes         Cast Iron Sinks and Whirlpools/Tubs Be careful not to leave dirty dishes, coffee grounds, tea bags or other staining materials in contact with the enamel surface for long periods of time. Rinse thoroughly after each use and wipe with a soft cloth. Clean with a scrub-free mildew remover or a mild detergent like 409® or Top Job®. Use abrasives or abrasive cleaners sparingly. Use a soft nylon brush on the tub bottom's non-slip surface. Do not use steel wool, wire brushes or abrasive sponge pads. See: Cleaning Whirlpool, Hot Tub Systems       Porcelain Sinks and Tubs Porcelain can be glazed or unglazed but it can be stained. Most stains are easily removed however. Use the treatments indicated for the following stains:   Coffee Dampen a cloth with water, dip it in baking soda and scrub the mixture over the stain Fruit Juice or Tea Wash with a solution of 1-tablespoon trisodium phosphate and 1 quart hot water. Rinse, then flood with a solution of 3 tablespoons laundry bleach in 1 quart of warm water. Grease Scrub using a stiff-bristled brush with a strong solution of heavy-duty household detergent or a solution of ½ cup trisodium phosphate and 1 gallon of very hot water. Hard Water Scum Scour the area thoroughly with a solution made of equal parts of vinegar and warm water using a nylon scouring pad. Mildew Sponge with solution of ½ cup laundry bleach in 1 quart water. For stubborn stains use a commercial mildew remover containing sodium hypochlorite and sodium carbonate. (Wear gloves and keep the room well ventilated). Alternatively, Mix a thick paste of household scouring powder and water. Oil Mix a thick paste of household scouring powder and water. Apply the paste to the stain and allow it to stand overnight. Paint Remove fresh oil-base paint with a cloth dipped in turpentine or paint thinner. Wash away the residue with a solution of ¼ cup trisodium phosphate mixed with 1 gallon of warm water. Remove fresh water-base paint with a cloth dampened with warm water and mild household detergent; such as dishwashing liquid. Scrub the area with a soft-bristled brush. Soap Scum Use baking soda in warm water. For heavy deposits use a solution of 1 tbsp of trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water. Rinse thoroughly. You may also use a solution of warm water and ammonia. Unknown stains Use mild solution of chlorine bleach. Do not use full strength or let it remain on the surface for more than a few seconds. You may also apply a stiff paste of whiting (calcium carbonate) and household ammonia; let it stand for one hour, then wash it off with soapy water.     Stainless Steel Sinks Clean stainless steel once a week. Apply stainless steel cleaner/polish with a nonabrasive cloth or sponge, working with, not across, the grain. If a cleaner with chloride is used, rinse the surface immediately to prevent corrosion. Blot dry any water from metal surfaces water evaporates and forms water deposits. Use a dabbing action to dry metal, not an abrasive or rubbing action. Clean with a damp sponge and buff dry. If finish becomes dull, it can be restored by the use of a mild cleanser such as Bar Keeper's Friend®, always scrubbing with the grain. Do not allow liquid soaps to dry on surface. Do not allow bleaches to remain on surface of stainless steel or they could cause pitting. >       Corian Sinks and Counter Tops Use soapy water or ammonia-based cleaner for most stains. Remove water marks with damp cloth and towel dry. For more difficult stains use an abrasive cleanser and a new green ScotchBrite® pad. Occasionally clean by filling the sink one-quarter full with a 50/50 water/bleach solution. Let soak for 15 minutes, then wash sides and bottom as solution drains and thoroughly rinse. You can remove minor cuts and scratches yourself by sanding with 180- or 220-grit fine sandpaper until cut is gone. Restore finish with an abrasive cleanser and ScotchBrite® pad.       China Sinks and Toilets Use soft abrasive cleaners such as Soft Scrub® to clean China. Strong abrasives will scratch and dull the finish. Dry with a soft cloth. Use only toilet bowl cleaners on the inside of the bowl. Do not clean the inside of the tank as you may damage the flush valve or other working parts. Wipe cleaning solutions from any plastic or plated parts immediately. Over time, hard water deposits may clog toilet rim holes and trapways. To handle this problem, purchase a commercial cleaner that's recommended for the removal of hard water deposits such as Bar Keepers Friend Lime & Rust Remover®. Follow all instructions on the package.       Acrylic Showers and Whirlpools/Tubs, Toilet Seats   Surfaces   Wipe out bath or shower after each use with soft cloth or squeegee. Use only a mild detergent (such as dishwashing soap). Do not use abrasive cleaners. Avoid detergents, disinfectants, or cleaning products in aerosol cans.   Be sure to wipe off any cleaner spill, especially from bumpers and hinges of toilet seats. Restore the toilet seat's gloss and luster with an application of no-wax polish. Pine-based cleaners are not recommended. To restore dull or scratched units, apply white automotive polishing compound with a clean rag. Rub scratches and dull areas vigorously. Wipe off residue. Follow with a coat of white automotive paste wax. Do not wax areas where you walk or stand.     Whirlpool, Hot Tub System Cleaning To prevent bacterial growth in Whirlpool and Hot Tub piping, clean the system at least twice a month, following this procedure: Adjust the jets so there is no air induction. Fill the unit with hot water to a level above the highest jets. (Caution: don't start the whirlpool without making sure there is water above the highest jets. Running a whirlpool without water will damage the pump seals causing the pump to fail or leak.) Add to the water two teaspoons of low-foaming dishwasher detergent such as Calgonite or Cascade (powder), and four ounces of household bleach, such as Clorox. Run the whirlpool for 10-15 minutes with the air control fully open for maximum turbulence. Drain, refill the tub with cold clear water to 2"-3" above the highest jets Run the unit again for another 5-10 minutes to "rinse." Then, drain the tub completely. Wipe dry with a soft cloth. Normal household disinfectants and cleaners such as bleach, detergents, vinegar, or baking soda are NOT completely effective in removing whirlpool or hot tub contaminants. See:Whirlpools, Hot Tubs & Bacterial Infections for more information,       Decorative Products, Shower Doors, Vanity Tops   Do not use bristle brushes or abrasive sponges. They will scratch decorated surfaces. Never use abrasive cleaners. Gold used on decorative products is like fine jewelry. Use only warm water to clean. Dry with a soft cloth. Do not let cleaners sit and soak on surfaces. Use a shower squeegee to clean the glass doors after showering. Rinse and wipe fixtures after cleaning to prevent soap buildup. On delicate surfaces use plenty of water, rub gently and rinse. To avoid lime build-up in hard water areas, be sure to always wipe the product dry after each use with a soft cloth. MikeMon, 08 Dec 2008 23:45:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:31http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/30/Shower-door-basics.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=30http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=30&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/30/Shower-door-basics.aspx Shower Doors Part 1- The Basics (this page) Part 2 - Measuring & Installing Shower Doors   Part 1 - The Basics When installing any type of shower, provisions must be made to make sure the water stays in the shower area. This can be most easily accomplished by use of either a shower curtain or a shower door.   Shower curtains have the advantage of being generally inexpensive and easily replaced, but their disadvantages are that they are hard to clean; they lack durability and wear out rather quickly. Light doesn't penetrate them well. Most important, they're also usually inefficient at holding water in the shower.   Fixed doors solve all of these problems.   Shower doors are sold in a variety of configurations depending on the opening that they are designed to cover. This may be the opening over a tub, the open side of a one-piece enclosure, or the doorway to a custom shower.   Shower doors may operate as sliding (bypass) doors, swinging doors, or a combination of both (bi-fold). The choice depends largely on personal preference, but also on the layout of the bathroom.   ADA compliant shower doors do not have a bottom track and must provide barrier free access. For wheel chair access, safety reasons and/or individual needs, a heavy-weight, hotel style shower curtain could be the best choice.   Sliding Doors Sliding, or bypass doors are the most common. These doors are sold in two or three sections. They use the least amount of space. They glide in a track, both at top and bottom. Sliding doors are attractive and are easy to care for.   Most problems that occur involve the track, which can be difficult to keep clean. The rollers can wear out or fail over time and may need to be replaced, but quality units can give many years of trouble-free service.   Sliding doors are most frequently mounted over bathtubs because of the length of the opening. They require a space at least twice the width of one door.   A disadvantage of this type is that they restrict access to the tub, making it more difficult to clean and provide an obstacle when bathing children or pets. They can sometimes be difficult to clean thoroughly because they overlap even when closed.   Bi-Fold / Curved Doors Bi-fold doors are a good choice when the opening is narrow and circumstances don't allow for a large sheet of glass to swing into the bath area. These doors are made in folding sections that open like an accordion and use minimal space, while providing full access to the shower.   Opening inward, bi-fold doors prevent water from dripping onto the bathroom floor.   The disadvantage of bi-fold doors is that they ride in a track like a bypass door, usually at the bottom, and sometimes the twisting movement of the doors causes them to bind and not move freely. The tracks also tend to collect dirt and oils and can be difficult to keep clean.   Like the bi-fold door, curved shower doors offer the advantage of "zero clearance" and are the perfect solution for corner installations.   The door itself is a curved glass panel attached to a frame at both the top and bottom for stability and smooth operation. The door is reversible for right or left access. The tempered glass door is arced for a full 90°, creating a larger and more spacious shower area than standard corner enclosures   Swinging Doors Swinging doors are made as wide as 48", but rarely are they more than 36" in width.   When swinging doors are used to cover a wide opening, they're usually combined with matching fixed panels.   In large, spacious baths, a wide swinging door adds a touch of elegance and grandeur, but care must be given to ensure that the door doesn't swing into sinks, towel bars, doorknobs, or other barriers that might present a hazard.   Swinging doors may be hinge-mounted or pivoting, and are secured with magnetic catches.   Large, heavy doors are normally hinged, and these hinges can be single action (one direction only), or double-action (swinging both ways).   Safety standards require all single-action hinged doors to open outwards to prevent someone from being trapped inside the shower should he become incapacitated.   A double-action hinged frameless door, on the other hand, may swing both ways.   Framed / Frameless Doors Doors may be framed or frameless. Framed doors have aluminum framing on all sides of the panels. Frameless have none.   On frameless doors, the handles and hinges are mounted directly through the glass rather than being attached to the frames.   Frameless doors have the advantage of giving a room a larger, more open feeling, and in being easier to clean. Fitted with clear glass, they show off a decorative wall tile or marble.   Because they lack the protection of metal framework, they are usually made of thicker, heavier glass (3/8" to 1/2" vs. 3/16" to 1/4"on framed doors); this gives a feeling of luxury and durability. When the doors have mounted side panels, those panels are often framed even when the door is not. Frameless doors are no more dangerous than framed doors. Glass, while being quite fragile, is actually very strong on its edge. Thick tempered glass is extremely durable and difficult to break. It also becomes safety glass through the tempering process. Should it break, it will shatter into tiny pieces, thus reducing the risk of injury.   The Frames Frames are generally made of anodized, extruded aluminum.   Anodizing gives the frame a corrosion-resistant surface that is chemically inert, but porous and able to accept dye into the coating. In the final stage of the process, a seal coating is applied that helps retain the color and helps the aluminum to better resist staining and corrosion.   The color can fade over time if exposed to ultraviolet light or to harsh cleaning chemicals, however.   Hard water can leave mineral deposits on the glass or extrusion that can cause spotting; these deposits can be removed by wiping off the door each time it is used.   Any chemical strong enough to remove accumulated mineral buildup will also attack the anodic coating. That is why most manufacturers recommend only Glass Plus or Comet Bathroom Cleaner (not cleanser).   Most manufacturers offer frames in a wide variety of finish colors to match any decor. Frameless doors are typically fitted with polished brass or chrome hardware, although the trend is to even more stylized materials.   Glass Options Glass is offered in a variety of styles. While they are generally either clear or opaque, several other types are available, from reflective to a choice of patterns.   Obscure is the most popular pattern, but glass may also be fluted, etched, or beveled. Some manufacturers even offer stained glass in some models. Clear glass is popular in some locales, but it should be noted that clear glass is very unforgiving when being cleaned. Streaks and spots are much more obvious than in opaque styles.   Basco sells a number of units specially built to fit specific branded shower enclosures. These also market a special line offering a Quick 'nStall feature, designed to fit a number of typical situations. This system cuts installation time in half and eliminates glazing, because glass panels are snapped into the framework at the factory.   Custom / Specialized Doors Specialized units are available for neo-corner showers, and for curved showers. Custom Enclosures can be designed in any height, width, and configuration. A number of matching accessories are also available for most units/.   Whether for standard or custom applications, curved shower doors add practicality as well as elegance to any bath. The tempered glass door of BASCO's Contours is arced for a full 90°, creating a larger and more spacious shower area than standard corner enclosures. The curved glass panel is attached at both the top and bottom for stability and smooth operation.   If the door is to be used for a steam unit (as shown at the right), a transom panel over the door seals the enclosure to the ceiling.   In these cases, regardless of whether a sliding or swing enclosure is preferred, vinyl gaskets are installed between the panels and completely around the unit to keep the steam from escaping.   Considerations When choosing a shower door, some thought should be given to where to place towel bars where they will be convenient.   Some doors come with integrated towel bars. In these cases, note that towel bars are not substitutes for grab bars. They are not designed for this purpose.   Installation Whether you are replacing an existing shower door, or building a new shower enclosure, proper measuring is critical for a perfect fit.  MikeSat, 06 Dec 2008 15:20:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:30http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/28/The-Importance-of-Bathroom-Cabinets.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=28http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=28&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/28/The-Importance-of-Bathroom-Cabinets.aspxThe Importance of Bathroom Cabinets One solution to storage problems in a bathroom is choosing the right bathroom cabinets. Having sufficient cabinets in the bathroom is essential to keeping the clutter off of the countertops, window sills, and even the floor. Bathroom cabinets can house towels and washcloths, spare toilet paper, beauty and hygiene supplies plus a rubber ducky or two for the kiddies. Choosing Bathroom Cabinets Choosing bathroom cabinets doesn't have to be a tough job. First you need to decide if you will use stock or custom made cabinets. Then you need to decide what will be stored in the cabinets. If that is determined before you put the cabinets in, you are more likely to choose the correct size cabinets for your needs. Finally, you need to choose the style, color and material that the cabinets will be. Stock Bathroom Cabinets vs. Custom Bathroom Cabinets If you are choosing stock cabinets, it is good to know that they typically start at 9 inches wide and can get as wide as 48 inches. Usually stock cabinets get wider by three inch increments so you can choose 9 inches, 12 inches, 15 inches, etc. Their heights can vary. Stock cabinets can usually arrive from the manufacturer fairly quickly. If you need cabinets that are not a standard size, you will need to choose custom made cabinets. Usually custom cabinetry is necessary if you have a space that isn't the same measurements as a stock cabinet or if you need to store an item that doesn't fit into a stock cabinet. Custom cabinets are more expensive than stock cabinets and take longer to arrive. However, they can make the difference between a room looking finished and a room looking simply like it came with the house. Bathroom Cabinet Materials The material that the cabinets are made from can make a big difference in the cost. Better woods can be very expensive, but there are usually laminate alternatives that imitate better woods yet are still affordable. In addition to wood, bathroom cabinets can be made from metal. Once a material is decided on, its time to choose the style and a color if necessary.MikeFri, 05 Dec 2008 19:53:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:28http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/26/Tip-of-the-day.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=26http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=26&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/26/Tip-of-the-day.aspxGlue a strip of sandpaper to the lid of your toolbox. It will come in handy for many jobs, including sharpening tools and pencils.MikeWed, 03 Dec 2008 01:56:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:26http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/25/Colors-That-Bring-Out-the-Best-in-Your-Kitchen.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=25http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=25&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/25/Colors-That-Bring-Out-the-Best-in-Your-Kitchen.aspxColors That Bring Out the Best in Your Kitchen Everything old in the kitchen can look new again with a splash of color. By Susan Kleinman A splash of color makes the stainless steel sink pop. Pair Hot Colors With Stainless Appliances What are the hottest colors to pair with stainless steel appliances? Find out from our designers! Although there are many black, white and colored appliances on the market today, stainless steel is still the most popular choice, says Bob Garner, Certified Master Kitchen and Bath Designer, President of the National Kitchen and Bath Association. This is undoubtedly one reason that deep, dark paint colors are becoming more popular for kitchens. "Although kitchens have traditionally been painted white or pale colors, there is a major movement today toward saturated colors," says Margaret Walch, director of The Color Association of the United States. "Because stainless steel reflects a lot of light, kitchens with many metallic surfaces can take an especially bold, bright color." There are several trendy shades that look particularly striking with stainless, says Walch, whose association forecasts color trends. "For a room with a lot of stainless steel, I'd suggest what we at the Color Association call Kabuki red — a deep, saturated red, such as the one shown above, Benjamin Moore's Exotic Red (2086-10). That would look smashing with stainless steel." If the thought of an entirely red kitchen makes you jumpy, Walch says, consider just one red wall. "You can either paint one wall red," she says, "or do a red tile backsplash. Either way it will give you a dynamic effect." Slightly less dynamic but equally appealing is a deep, saturated yellow, says Walch. "There's no need to stick to the pale shades of yellow most often used in kitchens," she says. "Instead, try Spanish bloom yellow, such as Benjamin Moore's Banana Yellow (2002-2), pictured above. People like their kitchens to wake them up a bit in the morning. A deep, bright color helps make the kitchen more eye-opening."   Next >> 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 MikeTue, 02 Dec 2008 01:20:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:25