http://mhmremodeling.comRSS feeds for mhmremodeling.com60http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/77/Choosing-the-right-bathtub.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=77http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=77&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/77/Choosing-the-right-bathtub.aspx  In this age where the need for comfort and satisfaction is imminent and households and establishments are doing anything they can to attain this, bathtubs are used to make sure that comfort and satisfaction in the bathroom can be attained without any problems. There are 2 possible bathtubs that households and establishments can use. Bathtubs vary and focus on different things. Fiberglass bathtubs focus only on the durability aspect of the bathtub. On the other hand, steel bathtubs concentrate more on making sure that the users are satisfied not only because of the bathtub’s stability but also to the comfort that they provide. The approach of choosing the perfect bathtubs depends according to the households and establishments that will use them and what problems they face concerning bathroom comfort. Other benefits from using fiberglass or steel bathtubs include cost savings and improved bathroom performance and safety. Households and establishments get benefits and water usage saving resulting from their use of bathtubs instead of the traditional showers. Using bathtubs in bathroom landscaping applications results in significant cost savings from decreased maintenance and from the benefits related to improved bathroom performance (e.g. safety and/or suitability). Additional benefits from using fiberglass or steel bathtubs in bathroom landscaping applications include benefits related to avoided water waste disposal - space savings and reduced risks to human health from water-borne diseases. All these can be ventured into by households and establishments upon their usage of either fiberglass or steel bathtubs. Maintenance of the cleanliness of bathtubs is important because they are supposed to help households and establishments achieve overall bathroom pleasure and satisfaction and not cause other problems to it. Bathtubs are supposed to create a feeling of comfort and soothing feeling that can help people in households and establishments release the stress that they have. To maintain the cleanliness and efficiency of bathtubs there are different things that can be done. These include constantly cleaning and unclogging to prevent the bathtub from accumulating too much dirt and filth; analyzing the bathroom environment to see if the said bathtub is still adaptable and relates to current trends; adding new features and designs to the bathtub; and determining and removing unnecessary things that makes the bathtub look crowded. To maintain the cleanliness and efficiency of bathtubs the methods to improve them should be upgraded. This should be done so that their users will not be left unsatisfied because of things like bad odor and poor water systems while using the bathtubs. In this respect, it is illustrated that households and establishments from every part of the world do show the same level of appreciation on the kind of soothing comfort and pleasure that bathtubs can bring. Moreover, it is also attested that the user of these bathtubs have a variety of bathroom needs, wants and desires that only bathtubs can solve. Households and establishments install bathtubs and expect them not only to give their traditional bathroom function of providing comfort and pleasure to all users, but also to help them attain a well-balanced outlook and a stress-free life. MikeWed, 28 Jan 2009 12:56:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:77http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/76/green-bathroom-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=76http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=76&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/76/green-bathroom-tips.aspxYou want your new bathroom to be easy on the eyes and the environment, but it’s tough to know which materials pass the green test. Follow these simple guidelines to earn an A from Mother Nature: You don't have to choose: Your bathroom can meet your comfort expectations as well as your eco-friendly requirements. Do… Help reduce air pollution by choosing the right paint. Look for labels that say low or zero VOC (volatile organic compounds) as you search for the perfect color. Pick materials with a classic look. “You might want to think, ‘Can I pick a style that’s not super trendy?’” says Jennifer Roberts, author of “Good Green Homes” (Bibbs Smith, 2003). “So the next people who live in this house aren’t going to go ‘Yuck’ and rip it out.” Choose FSC lumber. It’s certified by the Forest Stewardship Council as being harvested in a way that’s sustainable. Replace standard light bulbs with fluorescent versions to save energy. Look for a bulb with a color temperature of 2,700 to 3,000 degrees Kelvin for warmer light. Seal the unfinished surfaces of particle board cabinets with three coats of latex paint before they’re installed. “Particle board is the primary culprit for formaldehyde omissions,” says David Johnston, co-author of Green Remodeling: Changing the World One Room at a Time” (New Society Publishers, 2004). He says this off-gassing – slowed by sealing – can trigger environmental sensitivity. Don’t… Use drywall behind the tile or plastic shower surround. Johnston recommends choosing a cement board to create an environment that’s less friendly to mold. Keep an old water-guzzling toilet. Instead, splurge on a new version to help conserve this precious resource. A good rule of thumb: Look for a toilet that uses 1.3 gallons per flush or less, Roberts says. Hang vinyl wallpaper. It traps moisture and creates a perfect home for mold. When he peels up the corner of vinyl wallpaper, Johnston says he finds mold 80 to 90 percent of the time.MikeTue, 27 Jan 2009 13:03:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:76http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/73/bathroom-electrical-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=73http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=73&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/73/bathroom-electrical-tips.aspxTips:   If the wiring in your home appears to be a silvery metal instead of copper, you have aluminum wiring and should consult a licensed electrician before attempting any work or repairs.   Never reach into a circuit or fuse panel with both hands, you could short a circuit across your heart. For safety's sake, keep one hand in your pocket whenever dealing with your panel.   A ball of yarn can help you fish a wire through conduit. Tie one end of the yarn around a pencil and use your shop vac to suck the other end through the conduit. Tie the free end to your wire and pull the whole thing back through.   Bathtubs sometimes sink a bit when they're full. Because of this, the caulking surrounding the tub will last longer if, before you caulk, you fill the tub with water and keep it full until after the caulking has cured.   You can use mirror clips to attach a small wastebasket to the inside of your bathroom's cabinet door.   Did you know? The first plumbers who wanted to put bathrooms in homes were considered crude in the early 19th century. Who could imagine eating and using the restroom under the same roof! MikeFri, 23 Jan 2009 23:39:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:73http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/72/Window-Removal.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=72http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=72&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/72/Window-Removal.aspxMaterials: Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Materials:   Window Removal hammer utility knife pry bar plywood 2x4 stock Wall Demolition measuring tape pry bar hammer chisel hammer screwdrivers drill, with drill bits and driver bits utility knife circular saw hacksaw or reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade miter saw exterior trim weather stripping safety glasses work gloves Window Removal 1. To start the project, the goal is to remove the window and make it a wall. 2. Using a pry bar and hammer, the trim around the window is extracted (figure A). 3. After the window sash cord is cut (figure B) and bottom window stops come out, the bottom window can be removed (figure C). 4. Score the top window trim and remove the top window sash. 5. Using a hammer, break up the drywall around the window framing (figure D). 6. Using a reciprocating saw, cut around the window frame (figure E). A circular saw is used outside and is equipped with a masonry blade so that it can cut through the stucco (figure F). 7. Using the reciprocating saw and pry bar, remove the entire windowsill (figure G). Figure F   Figure G     8. With the window out, seal the hole. Figure H   Figure I     9. Using standard construction techniques, frame in a new section of the wall (figure H). 10. Using a piece of plywood, attach it to the exterior of the wall to patch up the hole (figure I). Figure J Figure K Figure L Wall Demolition   1. Before demolishing a wall, be certain that all the power is turned off. 2. Using a hammer, break up all the drywall around the framing and carefully remove (figure J). 3. Because dust from drywall can irritate the lungs and eyes, wear nose and eye protection. Be prepared to get dusty and dirty. 4. At the same time, remove the drywall from the ceiling in the area that will become the climate control wine cellar (figure K). 5. Remove the old insulation exposing the bare beams of the ceiling (figure L). 6. Using brooms, clean up the mess.MikeSun, 18 Jan 2009 21:26:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:72http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/70/bathroom-door-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=70http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=70&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/70/bathroom-door-tips.aspxAfter the installation of the bathroom tile, the next step in the   Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I   bathroom renovation is the installation of the interior door in the rough door opening that was built earlier. The relocation of the door is a significant feature of the bathroom renovation. In its original location (figure A) door opened directly to the toilet. In its new location (figure B), the new door will open to the vanity and large mirror -- enhancing privacy and creating the illusion of space.   Sarah -- the homeowner and project supervisor -- selected a 28-inch pre-hung door (figure C). This is a typical unit available at any home improvement store. Width sizes range from 18 to 36 inches. Pre-hung means the door comes already hinged to the frame and the casing for one side. The other casing slides out so it can be adjusted for the width of the walls and reattached. The pre-hung unit saves considerable installation time.   The door itself matches replacement doors being used in the rest of the house. The style imitates wood grain and is primed to be painted after it's installed. Installation is relatively simple but it helps to have two people. Sarah's dad helps out as he has with several other parts of this workshop.   Steps:   After taking off the casing on one side (figure D), they slide the entire unit into the rough opening (figure E). Sarah has followed the directions for this pre-hung door and sized the rough opening two and a half inches wider than the absolute width of the door. For a 28-inch door, the opening is 30-1/2 inches. This dimension could vary depending on the manufacturer of the door.       The critical part of this operation is making sure the frame is level on both sides (figure F). Sarah and her dad insert wood shims to fill the space between the frame and the rough opening and to level up the entire unit.       Once everything is level, the door casing can be nailed in place. For this Sarah will use #16 finishing nails to secure the door (figure G).       Finishing nails have a small, indented head. This allows them to be set into the frame and the casings. To do this, Sarah uses a hardened tool called a nail set. She pounds the nail almost all the way into the frame but leaves a small part of the head protruding. That way she won't damage the moldings with blows from the hammer. Inserting the small end of the nail set into the nail-head's indentation (figure H), Sarah now pounds it a short ways into the frame. This allows resulting hole to be filled with spackling compound, smoothed and painted -- making the nails virtually invisible.       With this section of the door level and secured with nails, the casing on the bathroom side (figure I) can be attached in the same way. The completion of the tile floor and installation of the new door are particularly satisfying steps in the bathroom renovation. Both provide an immediate gratification with their visible results. The segments that follow cover the installation of drywall, plumbing fixtures and the new shower.  MikeFri, 16 Jan 2009 01:00:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:70http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/66/Replacing-a-broken-tile.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=66http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=66&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/66/Replacing-a-broken-tile.aspx Use a grout saw to remove one damaged tile without harming the ones nearby. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E   Q: I dropped a pot in my kitchen and cracked a tile. How can I replace it without damaging the surrounding tiles? A: (Brad Staggs, Ask DIY Home Repair expert): When just one tile is damaged, you need to isolate it before you remove and replace it. Here's the procedure: Materials: Grout saw or rotary tool with cutting attachment Safety eyewear if you're using the rotary tool Hammer Towel Wood or cold chisel Vacuum New tile Tile adhesive Putty knife Notched trowel Pre-mixed grout Grout float Sponge or towel     You'll need to further break the damaged tile with a hammer so you can get it out. So the shock waves from the hammering don't damage neighboring tiles, isolate the tile by first removing the grout that surrounds it with a grout saw. You can buy a grout saw for a few bucks at any home supply store. Drag its blade through the grout -- it will take some time to cut all the way through. You could also use a rotary tool with a cutting tip to take out the grout (figure A), but it costs a lot more. Safety Alert: If you do opt for the rotary tool, make sure to wear safety eyewear.   Once the grout is out, lay a cloth over the tile and use a hammer to break the tile beneath into more manageable pieces (figure B). Remove the tile pieces, wearing gloves if they're sharp.   Use a wood chisel or some type of cold chisel to lift the old tile adhesive from the floor (figure C). Be careful not to gouge the floor beneath the adhesive.   Vacuum the debris from the chiseling. If the floor's not completely clean, the new tile won't adhere properly.   Find a replacement tile, either buying or cutting a new one to fit, or relying on the extras you may have saved when the floor was first installed.   "Butter" the back of the tile with tile adhesive using a putty knife (figure D). Then use a notched trowel to smooth the adhesive evenly across the back of the tile.   Place the tile and tap it down firmly with a hammer handle to make sure it's attached to the floor. Let it dry for 24 hours before applying grout.   Use a grout float to press the grout around the edges of the tile (figure E). Use a sponge or towel to wipe the excess from the top of the tile. MikeTue, 13 Jan 2009 13:00:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:66http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/65/Installing-a-bathroom-pedistal-sink.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=65http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=65&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/65/Installing-a-bathroom-pedistal-sink.aspxMaterials:   square tape measure adjustable wrench slip joint pliers level drill pipe wrench p-trap assembly plumber's putty Teflon tape socket wrench with sockets and 8" extension pencil pedestal sink manufacturer's instructions faucet drain assemblies 1. Shut off the water at the main.   2. Turn the water heater to "off", or turn the switch to the "pilot" position if gas. 3. Drain the plumbing by opening a faucet. 4. Remove the old sink and trap. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D   Mounting the Pedestal to the Floor   The pedestal sink must be mounted to the floor for stability. The technique for doing this will vary depending on the type of floor you have.   If you are drilling into concrete, use a hammer drill and a concrete bit. Simply add a lag screw, and then snug it down with a ratchet. Be sure not to over-tighten.   If your floor is tile, use a tile bit to drill the holes. A tile bit has a head like an arrowhead. Drill into the grout line if possible to prevent damage to the tile. Note: Don't apply sealant around the base of the pedestal. It could damage the floor if you ever need to move the sink. 5. Take off the old lavatory stops. The plumbing for pedestal sinks are exposed, so you'll want all of the plumbing, including the stops to be new. You'll also need to install a new chrome lavatory stop and escutcheon cover. 6. Using two adjustable wrenches, remove the old supply stops from the hot and cold water lines (figure A), and then remove the old escutcheon covers. 7. Apply Teflon tape on both stub outs, and then add new escutcheon covers by sliding the cover over the roughed in water supply. 8. Thread new supply stops on both (figure B) and use a wrench to tighten everything up. Ensure that the inlet valve is in the upright position. 9. Unscrew the old collar nut, and then slide the new p-trap escutcheon cover over the drain hole. 10. Place the lavatory on the pedestal, and then set it in the desired location. Check for level (figure C). 11. Be sure to center the pedestal to the drain hole on the wall. 12. Once the pedestal is centered, use a pencil to mark where the sink will sit against the wall (figure D). 13. Use a pencil to mark where the anchor holes will be drilled in the wall and floor. 14. After the holes have been marked, remove the sink from the area. 15. Install the lag screws into the wood backing behind the wall. Ensure your bit is at least a size smaller than the lag bolts so they'll hold tight in the wall. 16. Drill two 1/4 inch holes for the hanger bolts at the marks on the wall. 17. Thread the hanger bolts into the wall. Leave approximately 1 1/4 inch of each bolt exposed between the cap nuts and the finished wall. Dressing the Sink   "Dressing" the sink simply means to put all of the hardware on the sink before installation. Figure E Figure F Figure G 1. Install the spout and handles (figure E). Use a roll of plumber's putty around the seal to make sure it's water tight.   2. Insert the valve bodies into the proper mounting holes, ensuring that the valve body marked "cold" is installed to the right of the center hole. Once the valve body is in place, slide the metal washer and nut onto the base, and then tighten it down. 3. Place the seal ring over the spout body, and then insert the spout into the sink. Place the metal washer and nut onto the spout shank and tighten the nut with a wrench. 4. Install the hot water valve in the same way you installed the cold. Don't forget to use plumber's putty. 5. With the hardware mounted on the topside of the sink, mount the supply lines underneath the sink. 6. Screw the supply tee to the bottom of the spout, and then tighten it up with a pair of slip joint pliers (figure F). 7. Attach the flexible supply lines to the hot and cold valve bodies, and then attach them to the supply tee. 8. Connect both the hot and cold flexible supply lines to each of the valve bodies, tightening each one with a wrench (figure G). Figure H Figure I Figure J Pop-up Assembly Installation   1. Apply a generous amount of plumber's putty around the base of the flange, and then place the flange in the sink. 2. Place the nylon o-ring and nut over the flange. Tighten with slip-joint pliers. 3. Attach the drain body to the flange, ensuring a tight seal (figure H). 4. Use Teflon tape around the threads of the tailpiece to prevent the drain assembly from leaking. 5. Screw the tailpiece to the drain body. 6. Attach the connecting rod to the drain body, and then connect the stopper rod from the back of the faucet to complete the drain assembly (figure I). 7. Set the lavatory on the pedestal so that the hanger bolts extend through the lavatory holes. 8. Install the cap nuts and washers, and then tighten. 9. With the sink mounted, connect both the hot and cold water connections. Tighten with slip-joint pliers. 10. Secure the end of the p-trap to the tailpiece of the drain assembly. Connect the p-trap to the tailpiece by screwing it into place using the threaded connection (figure J). 11. Turn the water on at the main. 12. Turn on the water heater. 13. Open the faucet at the new sink, and then check for leaks.MikeFri, 09 Jan 2009 01:24:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:65http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/64/Silicone-caulk-removal.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=64http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=64&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/64/Silicone-caulk-removal.aspxQ: The silicone caulking between the cultured-marble pan and the ceramic tile wall in my shower stall has to be replaced. Is there a special tool for this purpose? –Gene Ackert, Ramona, Calif. A: Tom Silva replies: I'm sure there is, although I've never had to use one. I've had pretty good luck with a utility knife and a glass scraper with a razor blade. First, slice through each side of the bead with the knife, and pull out what you can by hand. Then, hold the scraper at a shallow angle to avoid scratching the surface, and remove any remaining caulk. Next, scrub the surface with an abrasive pad soaked in mineral spirits to get rid of any silicone residue, which will prevent the new sealant from sticking. Buy new mildew-resistant caulk that's formulated for use in bathrooms, and only apply it to surfaces that are bone-dry. If there's any wetness, fresh silicone won't adhere properly.MikeWed, 07 Jan 2009 23:07:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:64http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/62/Patching-Wood-Floors.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=62http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=62&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/62/Patching-Wood-Floors.aspxPatching Wood Floors Scott Gibson, contributing editor Remodeling leaves holes in oak floors that can be patched without hiring a pro. --> I have a 1920s house with oak floors. After removing walls during a remodel and updating the heating system, I now have holes in the floor that need patching. Is this is a DIY job, or should I go with a professional? If it's something I can do myself, what's the best way to go about it? It all depends on how adventuresome you're feeling. But in reality, repairing or replacing small areas of flooring is a manageable job. You need a few tools--not a lot of exotic ones--and the process is straightforward. Before you start with the finish flooring, you have to do something about any missing subflooring. In a house that age, the subfloor most likely consists of solid planks but you can use plywood or a pressed wood panel such as oriented strand board for the repairs. To replace the subfloor you removed for a heat register, start in the basement. Cut a piece of plywood slightly larger than the opening you're trying to fill and screw it to the underside of the subfloor so it covers the hole. Now, from the top, cut another piece of plywood to fill the void and screw and glue that into place. If the plywood isn't as thick as the subflooring, shim the patch so it's flush with the surrounding subfloor. You should now have a flat, sturdy base for the finish flooring. Oak strip flooring was (and is) popular for its durability as well as natural beauty. The narrow (2 ¼ in. or less wide) pieces of oak are milled with a tongue-and-groove profile on the edges and ends, allowing floorboards to interlock as you nail them down. You have to find some flooring to match--not only the right width, but also the right kind of oak. Both red and white oak is used and while the colors are similar, they're not exactly the same. A flooring dealer should be able to match the species and width. If it's an oddball size, try searching the Web for a specialty source. If all else fails, you can always ask a local mill shop to make the few pieces you need from scratch. It costs more, but it's not rocket science. Your repair jumps out at you if you simply fill in the rectangular space. Your eye would stop abruptly at the edge of the new flooring as your brain shouted, "Patch!" It would be better to make the space irregular by cutting back some of the floor boards and install new ones in the same staggered pattern you see on the rest of the floor. With a circular saw, make two parallel cuts in the center of the board you want to remove, cutting through just to the subfloor (wear safety glasses and keep the blade away from nails at the edge of the board).  Chisel out the strip and then pry out the board. To install new strips, you have to cut away the tongues on the edges and ends of the boards. Glue and nail them in place through the face of the board. Then fill the nail holes with putty. If you have access to one, a pneumatic nail gun drives a small-diameter nail that's easy to hide. If you're going to sand and refinish the floor, the old and new boards should match fairly well. If not, blend in the repair by mixing wood stain and practicing on scrap until you have a good match. Then finish with a couple of coats of polyurethane. Voilá. About the Author An accomplished woodworker and carpenter, Scott Gibson is the former editor of Fine Woodworking magazine, and a former editor at Today's Homeowner and Fine Homebuilding magazines. He also is former managing editor of the Kennebec Journal, a daily newspaper in Maine.MikeTue, 06 Jan 2009 23:58:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:62http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/61/Installing-a-bathroom-faucet.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=61http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=61&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/61/Installing-a-bathroom-faucet.aspxAlthough there are many parts that you can get to fix your sink faucet sometimes you get to the point where it is best just to replace everything. If this is your situation then performing the work yourself is not that big a deal. You will need a few common tools and the appropriate faucet to fit your sink. Once you have everything ready the work should take you anywhere from 45 minutes for a same kind replacement to 3 hours if you need to change the hot and cold water feed lines. Lets look at the different faucet types you can chose from.  The First type is a single hole faucet. This type of faucet is not as common as type 2 and 3 but you will find them on commercial and custom sinks that only have one hole cut in the sink top. The Pop-up actuator is behind the faucet lever and water is controlled by a replaceable cartridge designed to mix hot and cold water. Single hole faucets are usually found in the Kitchen. If you have a vanity or sink top with 3 holes you may be able to use this type of faucet and convert the other holes to a soap dispenser or plug them with a decorative cap.     The Second type and most common is a single unit 4 inch spread faucet.   This type of faucet can be either a 2 handle with independent valves all connected to the main base plate.. or a single ball type handle with a cartridge design. This type of design will need 3 holes in your sink top spaced 4 inches on center to allow for a hot water, cold water and a pop-up drain assembly actuator rod.     The Final basic type is a split handle faucetwhere the valve handles that control the water are independent from the spout where the water comes out. This type of design is often found on pedestal and custom sinks. The distances between the holes in the sink are not important because they are plumbed independently. Water comes out of the feed line pipe and is sent to each handle and then sent over to the spout.   Once you know if you need a single hole, split handle or 4 inch spread faucet your selection is half way done.   If you are replacing an older faucet you can bring it to the store and ask for a recommendation on what type will best fit your needs. window.google_render_ad(); Remember when replacing just the faucet more then likely there will be staining of the sink top around and under the metal parts. It is possible to remove some of the stains with bleach and other cleaning products but when choosing a new faucet for an old sink top you should probably try to get the same size base to hide this discoloration. Note If you have a custom sink your selection may be very limited. Many custom designs still follow basic sink configurations but some are radical departures which will mean contacting the manufacturer for specific replacement parts.    Removing your old faucet   The first thing you need to do when replacing your faucet is to check the supply line shutoff valves. Depending on the type of sink your water supply lines will exit the wall or floor under the sink. Older homes will have a mixture of different types of pipe that are usually metallic (copper, chrome steel, galvanized) and new homes will most likely have cpvc plastic pipe. There will be two valves one for hot and cold water.  Turn the cold water on at the faucet and then close the valve below the sink until the water turns off. Repeat the same process for the hot water side. If the valve is working properly then you should be able to stop the water at the valve and no water should exit the faucet. If you find that there is a problem with the valve not stopping all of the water then you will need to replace the valve when you replace the faucet. To replace the valve you will need to remove it. To do so you will need to stop water flow to the bathroom by turning off the main water supply to the home or by turning off an intermediate valve. Some valves are threaded on and others need to be soldered or cemented on with PVC glue. Now that we have stopped the water supply to the sink we can remove the supply line from the valveto the faucet. If you have flexible lines installed then you can reuse them without problem on the new faucet. If you have a bent chrome metallic line (found on exposed sinks) then you should inspect the line for problems and calcium deposit buildup before reusing it on your new faucet. You should now remove the pop-up lever rod from your drain. This is pretty simple to do by removing the metal clip from the pop-up rod that connects the horizontal and vertical parts. If you can’t get this connection apart easily then you will need to remove the pop-up rod and ball from the drain wich unscrews from the back then remove the clip from the rod. Remove the faucet by reaching behind the sink and removing the one or two faucet lock down nuts.       If faucet lock nuts are plastic you can probably remove them by hand or with a slight nudge with a channel lock or large pair of pliers.  If the locking nut is metallic then you may need a special basin wrench to get a good grip on the nut. For removal of an old faucet you can probably get away with pliers because your new faucet will come with a new plastic nut however be careful not to strip it in a way that will make it impossible to get off or you will end up needing to remove your sink from the wall. If you do end up stripping a plastic or metal connection you should replace that part and not reuse it. You can now remove the faucet from the sink top.   Installing the new Faucet   When you purchase your new faucet you will need to decide if you will be replacing your pop-up drain. Often by the time the faucet goes bad the chrome on the pop-up has been pretty well pitted and it may not work the way you like but if it is cleaned and adjusted you may still be able to use it. Some faucet kits come with a drain pop-up and others mostly the lowest costs ones are just the faucet. Installing the faucet is basically the reverse of taking it off. Depending on your model you may want to make the water supply line connections first then drop the lines into the holes in your sink. Some designs will require you to attach them from below. The faucet and or the independent handles or soap dispensers should not require any plumbers putty. Each part should come with a gasket to place between the metal part and the sink top. If you are replacing the pop-up then you should remember to buy a small container of plumbers putty to put between the metal flange of your drain pop-up and the ceramic opening in the base of your sink. Usually manufacturers include a thick gasket ring but sometimes there are imperfections that need a little filling to make it smooth and flush. Once you have replaced the faucet and have everything connected you will want to remove the aerator from the faucet and allow the water to run for a few minutes to clean out any small chunks of stuff. This is very important if you needed to replace the supply line valves.  MikeTue, 06 Jan 2009 00:18:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:61http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/59/installing-small-bath-vanity.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=59http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=59&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/59/installing-small-bath-vanity.aspx  Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I Figure J   Q: Our bathroom vanity has seen better days. I would like to replace it. Can you tell me how?   A: (Sharon Hanby-Robie, Ask DIY Remodeling expert) There are some great new styles on the market, and it's possible to find something in just about anyone's price range. I recommend that you replace the sink and countertop at the same time -- you can ruin a new vanity by trying to make your old countertop work on it.   Here are the steps you'll need to follow:     Shut off the water and disconnect the supply lines (figure A). Use a bucket to catch any water that drips from the supply lines and the p-trap (the white curved pipe in the center) (figure B).     Loosen the caulk between the vanity and the wall with a utility knife (figure C). You may have to go all the way down to the floor on the sides to remove all the caulk. Remove the countertop very carefully so as not to damage the wall (you may need a helper for this step, especially if the countertop is large).     Loosen the screws attaching the vanity to the wall (figure D). (A cordless screwdriver makes it easier to do this step.) Remove the screws, being careful not to strip them. Remove the old vanity.     Locate the wall studs and make marks for new screw holes (figure E). (Make the marks for the studs a little higher than the top of the new vanity.)     It's very important to make sure the vanity is flush against the wall. You'll need to use shims and a carpenter's level for this step.     Once the vanity is positioned, attach it to the wall with 2-1/2" wallboard screws (figure F).     Tip: Before you attach the new vanity top, install the new faucet. It will make the job go faster in the long run -- and it's one less time that you'll have to get under the sink!     Use tub-and-tile caulk to secure the vanity top to the base (figure G).     Reconnect the plumbing (figure H) (this is also a good opportunity to replace the p-trap). Teflon (T) tape makes the connections easier and tighter (figure I).     Carefully apply a thin line of caulk around the countertop edges (figure J ). Be meticulous with this job -- the caulk will be highly visible, so neatness really counts. MikeFri, 02 Jan 2009 18:52:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:59