http://mhmremodeling.comRSS feeds for mhmremodeling.com60http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/89/Installing-a-toilet-seat.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=89http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=89&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/89/Installing-a-toilet-seat.aspx   Note: Illustration A, Illustration B available using   Toilet seat bolts may be hidden under plastic caps (illustration A, click above to view). Pry open each cap. Hold each bolt with a screwdriver, and unscrew the nut with adjustable pliers (illustration B, click above to view). Some nuts have plastic "wings" that make pliers unnecessary.   If the bolts are corroded, apply penetrating oil, wait overnight, then try again. If the bolts still will not budge, cut through them with a hacksaw.   Replace the seat and bolts, then hand tighten the nuts. Align the seat with the bowl and tighten the nuts one-quarter turn.   MikeWed, 25 Mar 2009 23:08:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:89http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/87/Steps-for-Creating-a-Custom-Bamboo-Countertop.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=87&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/87/Steps-for-Creating-a-Custom-Bamboo-Countertop.aspx  1. Measure the current countertop that will be   Figure A replaced or the vanity edge that the counter will rest on and cut your bamboo sheet to those dimensions (figure A). Steps for Creating a Custom Bamboo Countertop Figure B Figure C 2. Cut an additional strip of wood for the outside edge of the three sides. This will add thickness and create a clean edge on the countertop (figure B). Figure D 3. Use wood glue to adhere the strips to the bottom edge of the bamboo sheet (figure D). Figure E 4. Use a nail gun and brad nails to secure the edge. Shoot in two nails right next to each other at six inch intervals along the underside (figure E). Figure F 5. Sand all sides of the countertop with an orbital sander (figure F). Wipe with a cloth to remove dust. Figure G 6. Apply three coats of epoxy topcoat, sanding lightly in between each coat (figure G). Figure H 7. Measure the size of the sink and faucet holes and tape the area to be cut. Matt taped off this area to avoid scratching the finish of the bamboo (figure H). Figure I 8. Draw a pencil line on the tape and use a rotary saw to cut out the sink hole. Use a drill to cut the faucet hole (figure I). Figure J 9. Apply a small bead of caulk to the vanity edge where the counter will rest (figure J). Figure K 10. Lay the countertop down, make sure it is centered and apply firm pressure to the edges (figure K).   Tip: Matt stretched the budget by using the extra bamboo pieces to create a mirror frame, tub deck and shelves.    MikeTue, 03 Mar 2009 12:09:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/85/kitchen-butcher-block-install-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=85http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=85&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/85/kitchen-butcher-block-install-tips.aspxTime: 20 hours over two days. Difficulty Rating: This project rates a 4 on the Weekend   Materials:Sink Butcher-block counter Tile In this week's episode of Weekend Handyman, host Paul Ryan shows you how to give your kitchen a whole new look. The homeowners of this kitchen hadn't made an upgrade in 20 years, and this is the "before" shot, and this is what it looks like "after" Ryan and his helper completed the job! Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E After 15 hours of the 20-hour job, it's time to install the countertop in the next segment.       Tools: Heavy-duty router with straight bit and round over bit Reciprocating saw with bimetal blade Circular saw Impact driver Tube cutter Basin wrench Grinder Day Two   You may need to cut the counter. If so, make careful measurements. Tip: A lot of times the temptation is to try to measure the entire length with a tape, and inevitably you end up with a bend in the corner and it is hard to get an accurate measurement. Instead, measure to the middle of the wall (figure A) and make a mark at any number that ends in zero and then measure from the other end to the same mark. Find the number and add the two dimensions together to get the exact length.   Rig up a straightedge and block off the walls for dust. Cut the butcher block to length with a circular saw and a 60-tooth carbide tip (figure B). Tip: Have a helper hold the cut off piece called the "drop."   Take the measurements from the center of the sink and transfer it to the counter. You need a 5/8 reveal around the sink.   You need two lines (figure C), one for the rough cut with a circular saw and the outside line is for the finished cut with router.   Make side cuts -- use the clamps as a stop.   Practice on a piece of scrap wood and then make the plunge with a circular saw.   Cut the back.   To finish rough cutting, use a jigsaw to make clean cuts into each corner.   Use a router (figure D) for the finished cut with a 1/2" on three passes. Expert Tip: When routing, move the router in the same direction as it spins.   After the straight cut, go back around the opening with a round-over bit for a smooth finish.   Smooth the edges with some fine sandpaper.   Seal the open edges with heavy-duty urethane.   Transfer the holes from the sink to the counter.   Drill four holes in the counter for the faucet and sprayer with a forstner bit (figure E). Expert Tip: The forstner bit is stronger and more accurate than a spade bit and easier to use than a hole saw because it removes all the wood in the hole. Hole saws can also get stuck in this really hard wood. MikeWed, 11 Feb 2009 23:05:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:85http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/82/Tips-for-refacing-kitchen-cabinets.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=82http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=82&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/82/Tips-for-refacing-kitchen-cabinets.aspxMaterials: Table saw Miter saw Jig saw Pneumatic finish nailer and nails Compressor and hose Wood glue Wood putty Tape measure Framing square Speed square Saw horses Masking tape Utility knife Straightedge Clamps Spring loaded center punch Cordless drill Router 4' level Paintbrush Tack rag Sandpaper Sandpaper block Stain (golden pecan) One hour finish (sealant/polyurethane)   With precision, measure your old doors (each one individually), also if you are replacing the hinges as we did, measure the opening of the cupboard and then add a 1/2 inch on all sides. Tip: It's important to measure each individual door because in the 1960s and '70s most kitchen doors were custom built, which means in actuality each door was built slightly different.   Where two doors come together and meet you want to measure the opening to one inch on each side then divide that in half.   Make a list of cabinet sizes, and a drawing or diagram of your kitchen cabinets to help you remember where they'll go when your new ones arrive.   Order your doors about three weeks in advance. You can get them at any number of manufacturers or home stores. You can even order them online. If you're wondering about what kind of doors to order, there are many options:   Walnut   Cherry   Hickory   Oak   Maple ad more! Note: All of the above are "hard" woods, and they wear a lot better than "soft" woods (pine, cedar, etc.) because of all the activity your kitchen cabinets will get. If you're staining, you want something with a prominent grain, such as this oak. Once you put the stain on the wood the accent of the grain will really come out. If you're painting, you'll want to try a wood with a little less grain, such as a white wood -- maple or birch. For this particular project, the homeowners chose a red-oak cabinet with a flat panel.   Take off all the old doors, drawer fronts and moldings, and be sure to include everything you are going to be replacing. Tip: It's important that you create a drawing that includes where all the doors, molding and extra pieces go for when you're ready to re-hang the new cabinets. Also, number the pieces of wood. Doing this will save lots of hassle later!   Cover the side panels and face frames made up of the stiles and rails.   Decide how you want to treat these areas to go with the new cabinets:   You can strip them and re-stain them the same color as your cabinets.   You could paint them.   You could cover them with a pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA). This is a veneer that you adhere over the old cupboard. You just cut it a little big, then wrap it around the edges.   You could get a laminate product like melamine, which is also a "peel-and-stick".   You also could cover the surfaces with new 1/4 inch oak plywood for the sides and a solid wood (oak again) for the face frames. This is what we chose to do on this show.   To know how much wood to buy, measure the lineal footage of your surface area and add 25 percent.   Cut to size these pieces that you will put over the old cupboards. Tip: There are two common cuts of plywood veneer -- rotary cut and plain slice. For the rotary cut the log is place on a lath and as it rotates, a blade will come up and slice off that piece of veneer. For the plain slice, the cut is along the core, perpendicular to the log. Note that the panels used for the end-caps on this particular job were done with a plain slice. What is a Cross Cut? -- Usually when you do a project like this, you'll have to do a cross cut, which is when you cut across the grain of the wood. When you do this you want to take a straightedge, score a line with a knife, so when the cut is made there are no fraying of the edges in the veneer of the wood.   Sand the surface of the new cupboards just to rough it up so the wood adheres properly.   Using wood glue first, affix the panel using a pneumatic brad nailer and 5/8 inch brads. Tip: Nail top to bottom to avoid creating a bubble in the middle of the panel.   Now that the cupboards are refaced with the new wood, you need to stain them. Sand, wipe debris with tack cloth, stain and then apply three coats of polyurethane. Tip: When you're staining the face frames, it's a good idea to stain the inside first, which will allow you to come back to the face of the cabinet to control any drips or smears that may occur.   Next, pre-stain what wood pieces (molding or whatever) you can. It is a good idea to pre-stain the molding so you can ensure not to get stain on the ceiling. Pre-stain the counter top edging as well, if you are replacing that -- and the new cabinet doors. (Even if they came from the manufacturer pre-stained, lightly sand and stain again to touch up where they have been handled).   Now you're ready to hang the doors, but first, if you've been handling the doors, be sure to "lightly" sand them. Your fingers have natural oils, and if you don't sand the doors you could have fingerprints that show up once you start staining. Tip: When sanding a cabinet door, don't use sandpaper directly under your fingertips. This can cause indentations in the wood. It's best to use a sanding block, which evenly distributing the pressure to create a beautiful finish for your wood.   Now it's time to stain the cabinet doors. If you have raised borders on your cabinet panel doors, paint them first so the stain "won't" bead up in the corners. The doors should get three coats of polyurethane just like the face frames, and if you get a glob, try to brush it out immediately. If you do get a glob, however, gently pull the excess off with your fingernail or thumbnail, gently rub it out with fine-grade sandpaper and cover it with another coat of polyurethane. Note: Wait three hours between coats of polyurethane. Tip: It's a big help if you can get some of the staining done before you start this weekend project. It would definitely save you time. Day Two   First you'll need to put the hinges on the doors. Tip: Take an extra hinge to use as a spacer. Line it up to the bottom edge of the door and take another hinge and line it up right next to the "spacer" hinge, and you'll know exactly where your hinge should be.   Use a jig so you can easily find the spot to pre-drill the holes for the screws. Place the jig on the bottom of the cabinet; attach it and this way you will ensure the same position for each hinge on each door. Host Paul Ryan used a self-centering bit, which you just push in. It not only centers itself in the hardware, it sets the right depth so you won't drill through the door. Aesthetic Tip: Most door grains will have a pointed tip. Be sure to install the doors with the tip either up or down on all the doors. Be uniform either way, but it's generally more pleasing for the tips to be pointing down. (The tips on the doors for this particular project are pointing down.)   Hang the doors, then level them and readjust hinges if necessary. Leveling the doors can be a challenge. They don't always come out perfectly even. You may have to readjust the hinge screws on the inside cabinet edge to synchronize the doors. Note: No cabinet door would be complete without shock absorbers. What's a shock absorber you may ask? It's a small, white mount that makes the doors close smoothly. It works just like the shocks in your vehicle. These work especially well with cabinet doors that have glass. Tip: Remember to use your original kitchen-cabinet drawing as a guide. The doors should be numbered to correspond with the drawing.   The drawer fronts are next. You can use your old boxes, but for our show we ordered new boxes.   If you do order new drawers, lay one of the new drawers on the "old" drawer front to get the proper measurements. Take equal measurements on the top, bottom and two sides, and once you have that distance measured, just attach the new front panel, drill pilot holes and clamp it together while you do the attaching. Then screw it on from the back.   Put new drawer slides on the inside boxes. Note: There's a huge selection of drawer slides on the market. A lot of older homes have the 3/4-extension slides. Your kitchen remodel may allow you to upgrade to a full extension glide that will last a lot longer.   To attach all the drawer and door hardware, host Paul Ryan created an adjustable jig that allowed him to align each piece of hardware.   Attach all hardware and you're done! MikeWed, 04 Feb 2009 13:59:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:82http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/80/When-to-Turn-to-a-Contractor.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=80http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=80&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/80/When-to-Turn-to-a-Contractor.aspxWhen to Turn to a Contractor Allison E. Beatty Wondering whether you need to hire a professional for your next old house project? Here's how to know when a project is beyond your own skills. --> When renovating an old house, people often walk in and out of the do-it-yourself role. This can occur out of economic necessity or sheer determination. Tear out the kitchen floor? No problem. Lay a brick path? Why not? Tear into a load-bearing wall? Wait a minute… There is a point when even a skilled do-it-yourselfer should step aside and let the professionals take over. Here's how to know when you've reached that point. Examine Your Skills Start by taking a realistic look at your skills. Old houses can be tricky and often require the trained eye of a professional. Just because you've learned a little carpentry over the years doesn't mean you can tackle the job of piecing together cracked old molding and making it look seamless. The Materials When planning a project, take an inventory of your tools and materials. Do you have a miter saw for cutting crown molding? A wet saw for cutting tile? You might need several hundred dollars worth of tools just to do one project. Consider how often you would use the tools and how quickly you could learn to use them. Are you better off hiring a contractor? The Surprise Factor Many home owners turn to contractors when they are in the middle of a project and find an unwelcome surprise. They start to tear down a wall and find the main plumbing stack and some old wiring. Would you know what to do with such an old house surprise? There are many cases when doing the work yourself makes sense. You should be careful, however, of jumping into a bigger project--or one with many structural components--before understanding the details. Otherwise you might be calling a contractor from a room filled with plaster dust.  MikeMon, 02 Feb 2009 13:33:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:80http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/77/Choosing-the-right-bathtub.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=77http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=77&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/77/Choosing-the-right-bathtub.aspx  In this age where the need for comfort and satisfaction is imminent and households and establishments are doing anything they can to attain this, bathtubs are used to make sure that comfort and satisfaction in the bathroom can be attained without any problems. There are 2 possible bathtubs that households and establishments can use. Bathtubs vary and focus on different things. Fiberglass bathtubs focus only on the durability aspect of the bathtub. On the other hand, steel bathtubs concentrate more on making sure that the users are satisfied not only because of the bathtub’s stability but also to the comfort that they provide. The approach of choosing the perfect bathtubs depends according to the households and establishments that will use them and what problems they face concerning bathroom comfort. Other benefits from using fiberglass or steel bathtubs include cost savings and improved bathroom performance and safety. Households and establishments get benefits and water usage saving resulting from their use of bathtubs instead of the traditional showers. Using bathtubs in bathroom landscaping applications results in significant cost savings from decreased maintenance and from the benefits related to improved bathroom performance (e.g. safety and/or suitability). Additional benefits from using fiberglass or steel bathtubs in bathroom landscaping applications include benefits related to avoided water waste disposal - space savings and reduced risks to human health from water-borne diseases. All these can be ventured into by households and establishments upon their usage of either fiberglass or steel bathtubs. Maintenance of the cleanliness of bathtubs is important because they are supposed to help households and establishments achieve overall bathroom pleasure and satisfaction and not cause other problems to it. Bathtubs are supposed to create a feeling of comfort and soothing feeling that can help people in households and establishments release the stress that they have. To maintain the cleanliness and efficiency of bathtubs there are different things that can be done. These include constantly cleaning and unclogging to prevent the bathtub from accumulating too much dirt and filth; analyzing the bathroom environment to see if the said bathtub is still adaptable and relates to current trends; adding new features and designs to the bathtub; and determining and removing unnecessary things that makes the bathtub look crowded. To maintain the cleanliness and efficiency of bathtubs the methods to improve them should be upgraded. This should be done so that their users will not be left unsatisfied because of things like bad odor and poor water systems while using the bathtubs. In this respect, it is illustrated that households and establishments from every part of the world do show the same level of appreciation on the kind of soothing comfort and pleasure that bathtubs can bring. Moreover, it is also attested that the user of these bathtubs have a variety of bathroom needs, wants and desires that only bathtubs can solve. Households and establishments install bathtubs and expect them not only to give their traditional bathroom function of providing comfort and pleasure to all users, but also to help them attain a well-balanced outlook and a stress-free life. MikeWed, 28 Jan 2009 12:56:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:77http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/76/green-bathroom-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=76http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=76&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/76/green-bathroom-tips.aspxYou want your new bathroom to be easy on the eyes and the environment, but it’s tough to know which materials pass the green test. Follow these simple guidelines to earn an A from Mother Nature: You don't have to choose: Your bathroom can meet your comfort expectations as well as your eco-friendly requirements. Do… Help reduce air pollution by choosing the right paint. Look for labels that say low or zero VOC (volatile organic compounds) as you search for the perfect color. Pick materials with a classic look. “You might want to think, ‘Can I pick a style that’s not super trendy?’” says Jennifer Roberts, author of “Good Green Homes” (Bibbs Smith, 2003). “So the next people who live in this house aren’t going to go ‘Yuck’ and rip it out.” Choose FSC lumber. It’s certified by the Forest Stewardship Council as being harvested in a way that’s sustainable. Replace standard light bulbs with fluorescent versions to save energy. Look for a bulb with a color temperature of 2,700 to 3,000 degrees Kelvin for warmer light. Seal the unfinished surfaces of particle board cabinets with three coats of latex paint before they’re installed. “Particle board is the primary culprit for formaldehyde omissions,” says David Johnston, co-author of Green Remodeling: Changing the World One Room at a Time” (New Society Publishers, 2004). He says this off-gassing – slowed by sealing – can trigger environmental sensitivity. Don’t… Use drywall behind the tile or plastic shower surround. Johnston recommends choosing a cement board to create an environment that’s less friendly to mold. Keep an old water-guzzling toilet. Instead, splurge on a new version to help conserve this precious resource. A good rule of thumb: Look for a toilet that uses 1.3 gallons per flush or less, Roberts says. Hang vinyl wallpaper. It traps moisture and creates a perfect home for mold. When he peels up the corner of vinyl wallpaper, Johnston says he finds mold 80 to 90 percent of the time.MikeTue, 27 Jan 2009 13:03:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:76http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/73/bathroom-electrical-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=73http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=73&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/73/bathroom-electrical-tips.aspxTips:   If the wiring in your home appears to be a silvery metal instead of copper, you have aluminum wiring and should consult a licensed electrician before attempting any work or repairs.   Never reach into a circuit or fuse panel with both hands, you could short a circuit across your heart. For safety's sake, keep one hand in your pocket whenever dealing with your panel.   A ball of yarn can help you fish a wire through conduit. Tie one end of the yarn around a pencil and use your shop vac to suck the other end through the conduit. Tie the free end to your wire and pull the whole thing back through.   Bathtubs sometimes sink a bit when they're full. Because of this, the caulking surrounding the tub will last longer if, before you caulk, you fill the tub with water and keep it full until after the caulking has cured.   You can use mirror clips to attach a small wastebasket to the inside of your bathroom's cabinet door.   Did you know? The first plumbers who wanted to put bathrooms in homes were considered crude in the early 19th century. Who could imagine eating and using the restroom under the same roof! MikeFri, 23 Jan 2009 23:39:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:73http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/72/Window-Removal.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=72http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=72&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/72/Window-Removal.aspxMaterials: Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Materials:   Window Removal hammer utility knife pry bar plywood 2x4 stock Wall Demolition measuring tape pry bar hammer chisel hammer screwdrivers drill, with drill bits and driver bits utility knife circular saw hacksaw or reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade miter saw exterior trim weather stripping safety glasses work gloves Window Removal 1. To start the project, the goal is to remove the window and make it a wall. 2. Using a pry bar and hammer, the trim around the window is extracted (figure A). 3. After the window sash cord is cut (figure B) and bottom window stops come out, the bottom window can be removed (figure C). 4. Score the top window trim and remove the top window sash. 5. Using a hammer, break up the drywall around the window framing (figure D). 6. Using a reciprocating saw, cut around the window frame (figure E). A circular saw is used outside and is equipped with a masonry blade so that it can cut through the stucco (figure F). 7. Using the reciprocating saw and pry bar, remove the entire windowsill (figure G). Figure F   Figure G     8. With the window out, seal the hole. Figure H   Figure I     9. Using standard construction techniques, frame in a new section of the wall (figure H). 10. Using a piece of plywood, attach it to the exterior of the wall to patch up the hole (figure I). Figure J Figure K Figure L Wall Demolition   1. Before demolishing a wall, be certain that all the power is turned off. 2. Using a hammer, break up all the drywall around the framing and carefully remove (figure J). 3. Because dust from drywall can irritate the lungs and eyes, wear nose and eye protection. Be prepared to get dusty and dirty. 4. At the same time, remove the drywall from the ceiling in the area that will become the climate control wine cellar (figure K). 5. Remove the old insulation exposing the bare beams of the ceiling (figure L). 6. Using brooms, clean up the mess.MikeSun, 18 Jan 2009 21:26:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:72http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/70/bathroom-door-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=70http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=70&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/70/bathroom-door-tips.aspxAfter the installation of the bathroom tile, the next step in the   Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I   bathroom renovation is the installation of the interior door in the rough door opening that was built earlier. The relocation of the door is a significant feature of the bathroom renovation. In its original location (figure A) door opened directly to the toilet. In its new location (figure B), the new door will open to the vanity and large mirror -- enhancing privacy and creating the illusion of space.   Sarah -- the homeowner and project supervisor -- selected a 28-inch pre-hung door (figure C). This is a typical unit available at any home improvement store. Width sizes range from 18 to 36 inches. Pre-hung means the door comes already hinged to the frame and the casing for one side. The other casing slides out so it can be adjusted for the width of the walls and reattached. The pre-hung unit saves considerable installation time.   The door itself matches replacement doors being used in the rest of the house. The style imitates wood grain and is primed to be painted after it's installed. Installation is relatively simple but it helps to have two people. Sarah's dad helps out as he has with several other parts of this workshop.   Steps:   After taking off the casing on one side (figure D), they slide the entire unit into the rough opening (figure E). Sarah has followed the directions for this pre-hung door and sized the rough opening two and a half inches wider than the absolute width of the door. For a 28-inch door, the opening is 30-1/2 inches. This dimension could vary depending on the manufacturer of the door.       The critical part of this operation is making sure the frame is level on both sides (figure F). Sarah and her dad insert wood shims to fill the space between the frame and the rough opening and to level up the entire unit.       Once everything is level, the door casing can be nailed in place. For this Sarah will use #16 finishing nails to secure the door (figure G).       Finishing nails have a small, indented head. This allows them to be set into the frame and the casings. To do this, Sarah uses a hardened tool called a nail set. She pounds the nail almost all the way into the frame but leaves a small part of the head protruding. That way she won't damage the moldings with blows from the hammer. Inserting the small end of the nail set into the nail-head's indentation (figure H), Sarah now pounds it a short ways into the frame. This allows resulting hole to be filled with spackling compound, smoothed and painted -- making the nails virtually invisible.       With this section of the door level and secured with nails, the casing on the bathroom side (figure I) can be attached in the same way. The completion of the tile floor and installation of the new door are particularly satisfying steps in the bathroom renovation. Both provide an immediate gratification with their visible results. The segments that follow cover the installation of drywall, plumbing fixtures and the new shower.  MikeFri, 16 Jan 2009 01:00:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:70http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/66/Replacing-a-broken-tile.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=66http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=66&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/66/Replacing-a-broken-tile.aspx Use a grout saw to remove one damaged tile without harming the ones nearby. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E   Q: I dropped a pot in my kitchen and cracked a tile. How can I replace it without damaging the surrounding tiles? A: (Brad Staggs, Ask DIY Home Repair expert): When just one tile is damaged, you need to isolate it before you remove and replace it. Here's the procedure: Materials: Grout saw or rotary tool with cutting attachment Safety eyewear if you're using the rotary tool Hammer Towel Wood or cold chisel Vacuum New tile Tile adhesive Putty knife Notched trowel Pre-mixed grout Grout float Sponge or towel     You'll need to further break the damaged tile with a hammer so you can get it out. So the shock waves from the hammering don't damage neighboring tiles, isolate the tile by first removing the grout that surrounds it with a grout saw. You can buy a grout saw for a few bucks at any home supply store. Drag its blade through the grout -- it will take some time to cut all the way through. You could also use a rotary tool with a cutting tip to take out the grout (figure A), but it costs a lot more. Safety Alert: If you do opt for the rotary tool, make sure to wear safety eyewear.   Once the grout is out, lay a cloth over the tile and use a hammer to break the tile beneath into more manageable pieces (figure B). Remove the tile pieces, wearing gloves if they're sharp.   Use a wood chisel or some type of cold chisel to lift the old tile adhesive from the floor (figure C). Be careful not to gouge the floor beneath the adhesive.   Vacuum the debris from the chiseling. If the floor's not completely clean, the new tile won't adhere properly.   Find a replacement tile, either buying or cutting a new one to fit, or relying on the extras you may have saved when the floor was first installed.   "Butter" the back of the tile with tile adhesive using a putty knife (figure D). Then use a notched trowel to smooth the adhesive evenly across the back of the tile.   Place the tile and tap it down firmly with a hammer handle to make sure it's attached to the floor. Let it dry for 24 hours before applying grout.   Use a grout float to press the grout around the edges of the tile (figure E). Use a sponge or towel to wipe the excess from the top of the tile. MikeTue, 13 Jan 2009 13:00:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:66http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/65/Installing-a-bathroom-pedistal-sink.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=65http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=65&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/65/Installing-a-bathroom-pedistal-sink.aspxMaterials:   square tape measure adjustable wrench slip joint pliers level drill pipe wrench p-trap assembly plumber's putty Teflon tape socket wrench with sockets and 8" extension pencil pedestal sink manufacturer's instructions faucet drain assemblies 1. Shut off the water at the main.   2. Turn the water heater to "off", or turn the switch to the "pilot" position if gas. 3. Drain the plumbing by opening a faucet. 4. Remove the old sink and trap. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D   Mounting the Pedestal to the Floor   The pedestal sink must be mounted to the floor for stability. The technique for doing this will vary depending on the type of floor you have.   If you are drilling into concrete, use a hammer drill and a concrete bit. Simply add a lag screw, and then snug it down with a ratchet. Be sure not to over-tighten.   If your floor is tile, use a tile bit to drill the holes. A tile bit has a head like an arrowhead. Drill into the grout line if possible to prevent damage to the tile. Note: Don't apply sealant around the base of the pedestal. It could damage the floor if you ever need to move the sink. 5. Take off the old lavatory stops. The plumbing for pedestal sinks are exposed, so you'll want all of the plumbing, including the stops to be new. You'll also need to install a new chrome lavatory stop and escutcheon cover. 6. Using two adjustable wrenches, remove the old supply stops from the hot and cold water lines (figure A), and then remove the old escutcheon covers. 7. Apply Teflon tape on both stub outs, and then add new escutcheon covers by sliding the cover over the roughed in water supply. 8. Thread new supply stops on both (figure B) and use a wrench to tighten everything up. Ensure that the inlet valve is in the upright position. 9. Unscrew the old collar nut, and then slide the new p-trap escutcheon cover over the drain hole. 10. Place the lavatory on the pedestal, and then set it in the desired location. Check for level (figure C). 11. Be sure to center the pedestal to the drain hole on the wall. 12. Once the pedestal is centered, use a pencil to mark where the sink will sit against the wall (figure D). 13. Use a pencil to mark where the anchor holes will be drilled in the wall and floor. 14. After the holes have been marked, remove the sink from the area. 15. Install the lag screws into the wood backing behind the wall. Ensure your bit is at least a size smaller than the lag bolts so they'll hold tight in the wall. 16. Drill two 1/4 inch holes for the hanger bolts at the marks on the wall. 17. Thread the hanger bolts into the wall. Leave approximately 1 1/4 inch of each bolt exposed between the cap nuts and the finished wall. Dressing the Sink   "Dressing" the sink simply means to put all of the hardware on the sink before installation. Figure E Figure F Figure G 1. Install the spout and handles (figure E). Use a roll of plumber's putty around the seal to make sure it's water tight.   2. Insert the valve bodies into the proper mounting holes, ensuring that the valve body marked "cold" is installed to the right of the center hole. Once the valve body is in place, slide the metal washer and nut onto the base, and then tighten it down. 3. Place the seal ring over the spout body, and then insert the spout into the sink. Place the metal washer and nut onto the spout shank and tighten the nut with a wrench. 4. Install the hot water valve in the same way you installed the cold. Don't forget to use plumber's putty. 5. With the hardware mounted on the topside of the sink, mount the supply lines underneath the sink. 6. Screw the supply tee to the bottom of the spout, and then tighten it up with a pair of slip joint pliers (figure F). 7. Attach the flexible supply lines to the hot and cold valve bodies, and then attach them to the supply tee. 8. Connect both the hot and cold flexible supply lines to each of the valve bodies, tightening each one with a wrench (figure G). Figure H Figure I Figure J Pop-up Assembly Installation   1. Apply a generous amount of plumber's putty around the base of the flange, and then place the flange in the sink. 2. Place the nylon o-ring and nut over the flange. Tighten with slip-joint pliers. 3. Attach the drain body to the flange, ensuring a tight seal (figure H). 4. Use Teflon tape around the threads of the tailpiece to prevent the drain assembly from leaking. 5. Screw the tailpiece to the drain body. 6. Attach the connecting rod to the drain body, and then connect the stopper rod from the back of the faucet to complete the drain assembly (figure I). 7. Set the lavatory on the pedestal so that the hanger bolts extend through the lavatory holes. 8. Install the cap nuts and washers, and then tighten. 9. With the sink mounted, connect both the hot and cold water connections. Tighten with slip-joint pliers. 10. Secure the end of the p-trap to the tailpiece of the drain assembly. Connect the p-trap to the tailpiece by screwing it into place using the threaded connection (figure J). 11. Turn the water on at the main. 12. Turn on the water heater. 13. Open the faucet at the new sink, and then check for leaks.MikeFri, 09 Jan 2009 01:24:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:65http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/64/Silicone-caulk-removal.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=64http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=64&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/64/Silicone-caulk-removal.aspxQ: The silicone caulking between the cultured-marble pan and the ceramic tile wall in my shower stall has to be replaced. Is there a special tool for this purpose? –Gene Ackert, Ramona, Calif. A: Tom Silva replies: I'm sure there is, although I've never had to use one. I've had pretty good luck with a utility knife and a glass scraper with a razor blade. First, slice through each side of the bead with the knife, and pull out what you can by hand. Then, hold the scraper at a shallow angle to avoid scratching the surface, and remove any remaining caulk. Next, scrub the surface with an abrasive pad soaked in mineral spirits to get rid of any silicone residue, which will prevent the new sealant from sticking. Buy new mildew-resistant caulk that's formulated for use in bathrooms, and only apply it to surfaces that are bone-dry. If there's any wetness, fresh silicone won't adhere properly.MikeWed, 07 Jan 2009 23:07:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:64http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/62/Patching-Wood-Floors.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=62http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=62&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/62/Patching-Wood-Floors.aspxPatching Wood Floors Scott Gibson, contributing editor Remodeling leaves holes in oak floors that can be patched without hiring a pro. --> I have a 1920s house with oak floors. After removing walls during a remodel and updating the heating system, I now have holes in the floor that need patching. Is this is a DIY job, or should I go with a professional? If it's something I can do myself, what's the best way to go about it? It all depends on how adventuresome you're feeling. But in reality, repairing or replacing small areas of flooring is a manageable job. You need a few tools--not a lot of exotic ones--and the process is straightforward. Before you start with the finish flooring, you have to do something about any missing subflooring. In a house that age, the subfloor most likely consists of solid planks but you can use plywood or a pressed wood panel such as oriented strand board for the repairs. To replace the subfloor you removed for a heat register, start in the basement. Cut a piece of plywood slightly larger than the opening you're trying to fill and screw it to the underside of the subfloor so it covers the hole. Now, from the top, cut another piece of plywood to fill the void and screw and glue that into place. If the plywood isn't as thick as the subflooring, shim the patch so it's flush with the surrounding subfloor. You should now have a flat, sturdy base for the finish flooring. Oak strip flooring was (and is) popular for its durability as well as natural beauty. The narrow (2 ¼ in. or less wide) pieces of oak are milled with a tongue-and-groove profile on the edges and ends, allowing floorboards to interlock as you nail them down. You have to find some flooring to match--not only the right width, but also the right kind of oak. Both red and white oak is used and while the colors are similar, they're not exactly the same. A flooring dealer should be able to match the species and width. If it's an oddball size, try searching the Web for a specialty source. If all else fails, you can always ask a local mill shop to make the few pieces you need from scratch. It costs more, but it's not rocket science. Your repair jumps out at you if you simply fill in the rectangular space. Your eye would stop abruptly at the edge of the new flooring as your brain shouted, "Patch!" It would be better to make the space irregular by cutting back some of the floor boards and install new ones in the same staggered pattern you see on the rest of the floor. With a circular saw, make two parallel cuts in the center of the board you want to remove, cutting through just to the subfloor (wear safety glasses and keep the blade away from nails at the edge of the board).  Chisel out the strip and then pry out the board. To install new strips, you have to cut away the tongues on the edges and ends of the boards. Glue and nail them in place through the face of the board. Then fill the nail holes with putty. If you have access to one, a pneumatic nail gun drives a small-diameter nail that's easy to hide. If you're going to sand and refinish the floor, the old and new boards should match fairly well. If not, blend in the repair by mixing wood stain and practicing on scrap until you have a good match. Then finish with a couple of coats of polyurethane. Voilá. About the Author An accomplished woodworker and carpenter, Scott Gibson is the former editor of Fine Woodworking magazine, and a former editor at Today's Homeowner and Fine Homebuilding magazines. He also is former managing editor of the Kennebec Journal, a daily newspaper in Maine.MikeTue, 06 Jan 2009 23:58:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:62http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/61/Installing-a-bathroom-faucet.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=61http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=61&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/61/Installing-a-bathroom-faucet.aspxAlthough there are many parts that you can get to fix your sink faucet sometimes you get to the point where it is best just to replace everything. If this is your situation then performing the work yourself is not that big a deal. You will need a few common tools and the appropriate faucet to fit your sink. Once you have everything ready the work should take you anywhere from 45 minutes for a same kind replacement to 3 hours if you need to change the hot and cold water feed lines. Lets look at the different faucet types you can chose from.  The First type is a single hole faucet. This type of faucet is not as common as type 2 and 3 but you will find them on commercial and custom sinks that only have one hole cut in the sink top. The Pop-up actuator is behind the faucet lever and water is controlled by a replaceable cartridge designed to mix hot and cold water. Single hole faucets are usually found in the Kitchen. If you have a vanity or sink top with 3 holes you may be able to use this type of faucet and convert the other holes to a soap dispenser or plug them with a decorative cap.     The Second type and most common is a single unit 4 inch spread faucet.   This type of faucet can be either a 2 handle with independent valves all connected to the main base plate.. or a single ball type handle with a cartridge design. This type of design will need 3 holes in your sink top spaced 4 inches on center to allow for a hot water, cold water and a pop-up drain assembly actuator rod.     The Final basic type is a split handle faucetwhere the valve handles that control the water are independent from the spout where the water comes out. This type of design is often found on pedestal and custom sinks. The distances between the holes in the sink are not important because they are plumbed independently. Water comes out of the feed line pipe and is sent to each handle and then sent over to the spout.   Once you know if you need a single hole, split handle or 4 inch spread faucet your selection is half way done.   If you are replacing an older faucet you can bring it to the store and ask for a recommendation on what type will best fit your needs. window.google_render_ad(); Remember when replacing just the faucet more then likely there will be staining of the sink top around and under the metal parts. It is possible to remove some of the stains with bleach and other cleaning products but when choosing a new faucet for an old sink top you should probably try to get the same size base to hide this discoloration. Note If you have a custom sink your selection may be very limited. Many custom designs still follow basic sink configurations but some are radical departures which will mean contacting the manufacturer for specific replacement parts.    Removing your old faucet   The first thing you need to do when replacing your faucet is to check the supply line shutoff valves. Depending on the type of sink your water supply lines will exit the wall or floor under the sink. Older homes will have a mixture of different types of pipe that are usually metallic (copper, chrome steel, galvanized) and new homes will most likely have cpvc plastic pipe. There will be two valves one for hot and cold water.  Turn the cold water on at the faucet and then close the valve below the sink until the water turns off. Repeat the same process for the hot water side. If the valve is working properly then you should be able to stop the water at the valve and no water should exit the faucet. If you find that there is a problem with the valve not stopping all of the water then you will need to replace the valve when you replace the faucet. To replace the valve you will need to remove it. To do so you will need to stop water flow to the bathroom by turning off the main water supply to the home or by turning off an intermediate valve. Some valves are threaded on and others need to be soldered or cemented on with PVC glue. Now that we have stopped the water supply to the sink we can remove the supply line from the valveto the faucet. If you have flexible lines installed then you can reuse them without problem on the new faucet. If you have a bent chrome metallic line (found on exposed sinks) then you should inspect the line for problems and calcium deposit buildup before reusing it on your new faucet. You should now remove the pop-up lever rod from your drain. This is pretty simple to do by removing the metal clip from the pop-up rod that connects the horizontal and vertical parts. If you can’t get this connection apart easily then you will need to remove the pop-up rod and ball from the drain wich unscrews from the back then remove the clip from the rod. Remove the faucet by reaching behind the sink and removing the one or two faucet lock down nuts.       If faucet lock nuts are plastic you can probably remove them by hand or with a slight nudge with a channel lock or large pair of pliers.  If the locking nut is metallic then you may need a special basin wrench to get a good grip on the nut. For removal of an old faucet you can probably get away with pliers because your new faucet will come with a new plastic nut however be careful not to strip it in a way that will make it impossible to get off or you will end up needing to remove your sink from the wall. If you do end up stripping a plastic or metal connection you should replace that part and not reuse it. You can now remove the faucet from the sink top.   Installing the new Faucet   When you purchase your new faucet you will need to decide if you will be replacing your pop-up drain. Often by the time the faucet goes bad the chrome on the pop-up has been pretty well pitted and it may not work the way you like but if it is cleaned and adjusted you may still be able to use it. Some faucet kits come with a drain pop-up and others mostly the lowest costs ones are just the faucet. Installing the faucet is basically the reverse of taking it off. Depending on your model you may want to make the water supply line connections first then drop the lines into the holes in your sink. Some designs will require you to attach them from below. The faucet and or the independent handles or soap dispensers should not require any plumbers putty. Each part should come with a gasket to place between the metal part and the sink top. If you are replacing the pop-up then you should remember to buy a small container of plumbers putty to put between the metal flange of your drain pop-up and the ceramic opening in the base of your sink. Usually manufacturers include a thick gasket ring but sometimes there are imperfections that need a little filling to make it smooth and flush. Once you have replaced the faucet and have everything connected you will want to remove the aerator from the faucet and allow the water to run for a few minutes to clean out any small chunks of stuff. This is very important if you needed to replace the supply line valves.  MikeTue, 06 Jan 2009 00:18:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:61http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/59/installing-small-bath-vanity.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=59http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=59&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/59/installing-small-bath-vanity.aspx  Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I Figure J   Q: Our bathroom vanity has seen better days. I would like to replace it. Can you tell me how?   A: (Sharon Hanby-Robie, Ask DIY Remodeling expert) There are some great new styles on the market, and it's possible to find something in just about anyone's price range. I recommend that you replace the sink and countertop at the same time -- you can ruin a new vanity by trying to make your old countertop work on it.   Here are the steps you'll need to follow:     Shut off the water and disconnect the supply lines (figure A). Use a bucket to catch any water that drips from the supply lines and the p-trap (the white curved pipe in the center) (figure B).     Loosen the caulk between the vanity and the wall with a utility knife (figure C). You may have to go all the way down to the floor on the sides to remove all the caulk. Remove the countertop very carefully so as not to damage the wall (you may need a helper for this step, especially if the countertop is large).     Loosen the screws attaching the vanity to the wall (figure D). (A cordless screwdriver makes it easier to do this step.) Remove the screws, being careful not to strip them. Remove the old vanity.     Locate the wall studs and make marks for new screw holes (figure E). (Make the marks for the studs a little higher than the top of the new vanity.)     It's very important to make sure the vanity is flush against the wall. You'll need to use shims and a carpenter's level for this step.     Once the vanity is positioned, attach it to the wall with 2-1/2" wallboard screws (figure F).     Tip: Before you attach the new vanity top, install the new faucet. It will make the job go faster in the long run -- and it's one less time that you'll have to get under the sink!     Use tub-and-tile caulk to secure the vanity top to the base (figure G).     Reconnect the plumbing (figure H) (this is also a good opportunity to replace the p-trap). Teflon (T) tape makes the connections easier and tighter (figure I).     Carefully apply a thin line of caulk around the countertop edges (figure J ). Be meticulous with this job -- the caulk will be highly visible, so neatness really counts. MikeFri, 02 Jan 2009 18:52:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:59http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/58/Shower-head-installation.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=58http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=58&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/58/Shower-head-installation.aspx   Brad Staggs shows how to raise a showerhead to a more suitable height by installing a showerhead adapter kit. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D Figure E Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I   Q: My showerhead hangs too low. Do I have to install new pipes to replace it? A: (from DIY home-improvement expert and licensed contractor Brad Staggs) With a hand-held shower adapter, you can have the best of both worlds: a fixed showerhead and a hand-held extender that allows you to put the spray right where you want it (figure A). Here are instructions and tips on installation. Materials: showerhead adapter kit adjustable pliers Teflon® tape masking tape     Steps:   Tip: Before you begin work in your bathtub, place an old towel in the bottom of the tub to prevent the porcelain or fiberglass surface from being scratched while you work.     The adapter kit comes with a diverter device (figure B) that attaches to the shower stem and can direct the water in either of two directions. This enables you to use two showerheads from a single water source.     Remove the old showerhead using adjustable pliers. You may want to wrap the jaws of the pliers with tape (figure C) to prevent them from marring the chrome.     Using a rag (and, if necessary, some paint thinner) to remove any old plumber's putty or Teflon tape left on the threads of the shower stem.     With the old showerhead removed, you can attach the diverter. It's important to make sure that the supplied washer (figure D) is placed in the neck of the diverter according to the directions that come with the kit.     Apply some new Teflon tape to the threads of the shower stem (figure E) to help prevent water leakage. Important: When applying Teflon tape, wrap it in the direction that the fixture will be tightened. If the tape is wrapped in the opposite direction, it may tear when the fixture is installed on the threads, and thus will be ineffective at preventing leaks.     With the Teflon tape applied, attach the diverter to the shower stem (figure F), and hand-tighten it. Carefully tighten the connection using a wrench if necessary, but avoid overtightening this (or any) plumbing fixture.     Making certain that the appropriate washer is installed in the neck of the fixed showerhead, attach the head to one neck of the diverter and tighten it down.     With the showerhead installed, apply Teflon tape to the other neck of the diverter (figure G).     Attach the hose-extender attachment -- with the hand-held shower attachment -- to the free neck of the diverter (figure H).     An attachment that fastens to the shower stem holds the hand-held attachment when it's not in use, and allows it to be positioned as a secondary fixed head (figure I).           MikeSun, 28 Dec 2008 15:59:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:58http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/57/DIY-toilet-installation.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=57http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=57&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/57/DIY-toilet-installation.aspxIf you're upgrading your bathroom, you may want to install a new toilet, or--more accurately--a water closet. Modern toilets come in a variety of styles, are easy to install and use very little water. Note: Most states now require that both new and replacement toilets use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush. Materials: Open-end wrench, sized to existing closet bolts Needle-nose pliers Adjustable wrench Flat-head screwdriver Two pairs of slip-joint pliers (large and small pairs, if possible) Sponge Rag Gloves One- or two-piece water closet Good-quality toilet seat Toilet bolts to hold toilet to flange (may be purchased separately if not provided with toilet) Flexible toilet supply tube Wax seal (deep-seat or standard)   Shut off the water supply to the toilet by firmly closing the supply valve. Remove the tank lid, and flush the toilet, holding the lever down to let as much water drain from the tank as possible. Use a sponge to soak up the excess water in the tank and a plunger to force as much water as possible out of the bowl. Pop the caps from the base of the bowl. Remove the nuts with an open-ended wrench. You may need to hold the bolt still with a pair of needle-nose pliers (figure A). If the nut is rusted to the bolt, you may have to break it off. Disconnect the toilet supply tube from the toilet stop. Shift the toilet back and forth while lifting it off the flange. If you're working alone, remove the tank by unbolting it from the bowl before you attempt lifting the toilet from the flange. To prevent sewer gases from entering your bathroom, stuff a rag into the drain opening. Scrape all the old wax from the flange, and check for cracks. If the flange is cracked, replace it. Be sure to wear gloves when scraping off the old wax. Installing the Toilet Bolts and Wax Seal   Place the new toilet bolts in the flange with the bolts pointing up. Remove the rag from the toilet drain, and place a wax seal on the flange. Squeeze enough wax onto the bolts to hold them upright. Use a deep-seat wax seal when replacing older water toilets. Attaching the Tank to the Bowl Set the tank seal in place. Place the tank on the bowl. Drop the tank bolts through the appropriate holes. Tighten the bolts until the tank doesn't wobble. Be sure not to overtighten the bolts: you could crack the porcelain. If you're working alone, attach the bowl to the floor before installing the tank. Installing the New Water Closet Slowly set the tank and bowl assembly onto the wax seal, lining up the bolts with the mounting holes in the bowl. Tighten the nuts onto the bowl until the assembly doesn't wobble. Reconnect the toilet supply tube to the tank. Refill the tank, adjust the water level, and check for leaks. Attach the seat using the seat bolts provided. MikeSat, 27 Dec 2008 21:59:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:57http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/54/Bathroom-Ventilation.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=54http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=54&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/54/Bathroom-Ventilation.aspxBathroom Ventilation The only proper source of water in the bathroom is the water supply lines. Any other source is a problem that must be eliminated. Chief among these is condensation.   Condensation is a continual problem wherever there are wide variances in temperatures present, such as the hot water of a shower or whirlpool, or the heat from a steam or sauna unit. Vaporized water will condense on any cold surface and can potentially cause damage.   To prevent this, the super-saturated air must be removed from the room. Building codes dictate that this air should be vented to the outside. The ventilation fan serves this purpose.   Ventilation fans are available in a wide variety of sizes and with a number of options.   Size The volume of the room that is to be ventilated determines the size of the fan needed.   The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI), a trade association representing the manufacturers of 95% of the residential fans in North America recommends that a bathroom exhaust fan be able to deliver eight air changes per hour (ACH). Most building codes only require a minimum airflow of 50 cfm from a bathroom, which has a capacity of providing eight ACH for a room 8 ft. x 6 ft. with an 8 ft. ceiling.   To calculate the cfm rating of the fan you should select, follow the following steps:   Step1: Calculate the cubic feet of your bathroom (length x width x height)   Step2: Divide by 60 (the number of minutes in an hour)   Step3: Multiply the result by 8 (the number of recommended air changes per hour)   For bathrooms above 100 square feet in area, HVI recommends a ventilation rate based on the number and type of fixtures present, according to the following table:   Toilet Shower Bath Tub Whirlpool   50 CFM 50 CFM 50 CFM 100 CFM   This table is cumulative, so that a room containing all of these fixtures would require a fan rated at 250 CFM, but usually multiple fans are installed to achieve the desired results.   Guidelines Steam showers it is best to have a separate fan in the steam room that can be turned on after use.   Tub/Shower Typically the exhaust points are located over or near the shower or tub.   Enclosed toilet rooms must have an operable window or a fan for ventilation. With windows closed, exhausted air will be replaced by makeup air from adjacent rooms or forced air system registers.   HVI recommends that the exhaust points be located away from the supply, thereby pulling the supply air through the room. Bathroom doors need to be undercut to allow makeup air to enter the room.   Installation Most fans are rated between 50 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and 250 CFM. These fans are mounted in the ceiling.   Larger fans can be installed in the wall or ceiling. These fans use ball bearings motors and are not as prone to lubrication concerns when placed in the wall.   Smaller ceiling fans up to 110 cfm generally should not be used in the wall due to concerns about orientation of the motor for bearing lubrication and the built-in damper on the discharge side of the fan.   If these fans must be installed in the wall, the duct needs to be pointed up to allow the damper to operate. However, the bearings may not last as long due to insufficient oil flow within the sleeve bearings.   Fans installed above kitchen ranges must be listed for that application by UL and must be designed to handle the grease in the exhaust air and the high temperatures of a potential grease fire. Most bathroom ventilation fans are not suitable for this purpose.   HVI recommends that the fan be left on for 20 minutes after use of the bathroom. A timer is a good solution, allowing the fan to turn off automatically at the proper time. Alternatively, ventilation may also be provided on a continuous basis at other rates. This may complement the use of fans to provide the HVI recommended rates   The Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) publishes a directory of certified products. (Call HVI in Chicago at 1-847-526-2010 to request a copy).   Virtually all fans lose flow as the static pressure (resistance) increases.   This is measured in inches of water gauge, expressed as 0.1" w.g. or 0.25" w.g. (equal to a column of water one-tenth or one-quarter of an inch tall).   Most bath fans operate at between 0.1" and 0.25" w.g. The Home Ventilating Institute rates almost all bath fans at 0.1" w.g.   Undersized ducts or tight roof caps can increase this static pressure to 0.5" or 0.7" w.g. and there will be virtually no flow.   Most fans are designed for use with a four-inch duct. Avoid using three-inch duct; this creates very high static pressure, reduces airflow dramatically, and over the long term, reduces motor life in the fan. The ability of a fan to overcome static pressure is shown in the fan curve for a particular fan. In the example below, note how the airflow drops off as the static pressure increases.   The selection of the ducting for a particular installation can drastically affect the performance of a fan. As the duct run gets longer, the static pressure increases and the flow decreases. This limits the size of room that a particular fan can reasonably ventilate.   Sones The loudness of a ventilation fan is measured in Sones. The sone is an internationally recognized measurement of sound output.   Sones translate decibel readings into numbers that correspond to the way people sense loudness.   Sones follow a 'linear' scale, like inches. Double the sones is double the loudness.   In contrast, decibels follow a 'logarithmic' scale which is a multiplying of numbers instead of adding.   Sones readings offer easy, quick and accurate comparisons for laymen and engineers. In technical terms, the sone is equal in loudness to a pure 1,000 cycles per second at tone at 40 decibels above the listener's threshold of hearing.   In layman's terms, one sone is equivalent to the sound of a quiet refrigerator in a quiet kitchen (source HVI). The loudness of most fans ranges between .3 Sones and 2.5 Sones, with the average around 1.0.  MikeFri, 26 Dec 2008 03:13:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:54http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/53/How-to-select-faucets.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=53http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=53&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/53/How-to-select-faucets.aspx     Faucets   Materials Faucets display an almost infinite variety of styles and finishes.   They can be purchased in polished chrome, polished and antique brass, polished and satin nickel, gold, acrylic enamels of various colors, stainless steel, copper and mix-and-match combinations. Kitchen faucets come in single lever, pullout spray, high arch, offset handles, and so on. Bathroom faucets offer a similar set of alternatives. It's impossible to describe all the options here. Our best advice is to visit the websites of our various manufacturers to get a feel for what you like and then come to our showroom and see them first hand.   With all types of faucets, look for quality. Avoid lightweight faucets with plastic integral parts and those that use washers to control the flow of water. An Inexpensive unit may look as good as the more expensive ones, but it will not last as long. The money you save buying it will just go to the plumber who has to replace it in a few years. The best faucets offer effortless operation and a long-lasting finish.   Styles and Types Faucets come in all shapes and sizes. Some things you need to consider when making your selections are: 1) the type of handles you prefer (one or two) 2) the style you prefer 3) the finish you want 4) the requirements of the sink or lavatory it will be installed in 5) how much you want to spend. In the case of kitchen faucets, consumers have more options today than ever before.   Faucets should be chosen to complement the architectural theme presented by the cabinetry and appliances. Some models are reminiscent of an old-fashioned pump, while others appear to be an example of modern sculpture. But a sweeping contemporary model would look out of place in a Colonial kitchen.   Likewise, faucets should fit into the overall color scheme. Most people opt to match the faucet to the sink, but one should look beyond to the other elements to make sure they all go together.   Single-handle faucets have the advantage of practicality, but two-handled faucets tend to be more stylish. The spout's height and reach should be considered, and the sink that you choose to go with it affects these factors. The spout should be long enough to reach into a sink's multiple basins and high enough to provide ample working room. High arch or gooseneck spouts are convenient for large pots and shallower sinks, but can overwhelm a compact kitchen setting. Pullout sprayhead spouts have grown to be quite popular, but look for a retractable double-interlock hose that won't kink.   Some manufacturers sell faucet bodies and handles separately. This is done so that the homeowner can mix and match colors or finishes to suit their personal taste. However, if the buyer is not aware of this, he could buy an incomplete faucet thinking he was getting a bargain price, only having to go back to buy the rest of the faucet later.   One point of note: Most lavatory faucets to include the drain, but most kitchen faucets do not. The important thing you'll need to know when choosing a bathroom lavatory faucet are the design of the sink or countertop in which it will be mounted. You will need to know whether you need a single hole design, a 4 inch mini-spread or centerset, or an 8 inch widespread.   For tubs and whirlpools you'll need to know whether your installation calls for a wall-mount, a deck mount, and whether a handspray will be required.   Shower faucets should be discussed with your plumber or designer; today's styles are so varied and the options so great that it's vital to understand what effect is desired or what supply lines will be available in order to determine the specific valves that will be needed.   Please read our articles on shower valves. Don't order shower valves without a clear understanding of your requirements. In addition, since all controls will be in the same room, it's best if they match in color and style.   Warranties To protect warranty claims, keep a copy of your receipt. Many warranties apply only to the original purchaser and you have to be able to prove that you bought it.   Finish warranties vary greatly. For example, Newport Brass offers 33 different metal finishes in their line of faucets. As with most manufacturers, their PVD line carries a lifetime warranty on the finish; all others carry a 10 year warranty to original purchaser except for a few models that are intended to appear rustic by design. These have no finish warranty.   Some products carry two to five year warranties on various components, such as hoses. Many offer extended warranties on the faucet bodies, although this does not apply to what may be considered to be routine repairs. Other models carry full limited lifetime warranties. Please check with the manufacturer on any model you may wish to purchase.   NOTE: Many faucets require additional trim to complete the faucet or faucet handle set. By allowing you to chose your own handles and trim, you have greater choices in the design and appearance of your faucet. Also, different faucet manufactures and different faucet types are purchased differently. For example, when purchasing a Moen Inspirations faucet, you must select the rough-in valve, the faucet body, the faucet accent, and the faucet accent trim pieces. Other Moen faucets might only require a handle, or come complete. Delta faucets are purchased in a similar manner.   Be absolutely certain that you buy your faucet and sink at the same time and from the same source to make sure they are compatible. The sink must be drilled or have holes punched out to match the faucet you buy, and not all units will go together. Some specialty sinks require special faucets that match them. Cultured marble tops need faucets with a longer spout to fit correctly because of the setback. Never 'assume' that everything will fit, and always ask your salesperson to verify that they will work together.   Drains are included with bath faucets but not kitchen faucets. The drain and the basket strainer must be bought separately with kitchen faucets and they must match, so they should also be bought together.   Options to Consider Try to anticipate your needs before you buy, but also don't forget to consider more practical matters. For example, highly polished fixtures are very attractive when kept clean and shiny, but they do tend to show water spots more readily. Lavatory faucets on 8" centers are easier to clean than those on 4", as are single lever faucets over two-handle units.   MikeWed, 24 Dec 2008 00:21:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:53http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/51/bathroom-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=51http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=51&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/51/bathroom-tips.aspxBy Sarah Van Arsdale One of the problems with many home decorating magazines is that they display photos of rooms in houses much larger and more elegant than anything an average reader will ever be decorating. Even for professional decorators, many projects involve improving rooms that are challenging, by being too dark, too small, or by having oddly-slanted ceilings. The bathroom we've chosen is faced with all three challenges, and yet the decorator has created a bright, interesting room that really comes together. Let's look at this room with the Sheffield Guidelines to Interior Design, function, mood, and harmony. First, the principal function of a bathroom is clear: it's there to take care of one's basic hygienic needs. And in those terms, this bathroom clearly can do its job, with all the necessary facilities. There is even an extra countertop and cabinet, in the left rear of the room, which is perfect for applying cosmetics, as the natural light from the skylight provides the right illumination, and the area is set off from the tub and sink. Tip: Whenever you look at the function of a room, try to seek out the more subtle functions as well. For many people, the bathroom also provides one of the only places in the home that assures utter privacy. While the kids are clamoring in the living room and the phone is ringing and the TV is blaring, this bathroom offers a pleasant place to hide and relax for a few moments.   That function of relaxation is evidenced quite practically in the tub. Notice, first of all, the choice to have a full bath instead of a stall shower. A stall shower would have provided more room, but then the luxury of the tub would have been lost. And this isn't just any tub; this one is complete with a pillow molded into the tub, promising ultimate comfort and relaxation. Notice too, how the soft, natural light is used here, which not only speaks to the function of the room as a place for relaxation, but also speaks to the mood of the room. The mood is relaxed, tidy, and feminine without being fussy. The obvious source of the gentle light is from the oblong skylight over the commode, but the wall of glass bricks at the tub also lets in a huge splash of light without sacrificing privacy. This milky, filtered light contributes to the dreaminess of the room. Finally, the room's harmony further contributes to the mood. The color choice of blue plays on the idea of the bath as being a place of water - and we all know the relaxing properties of water, whether you're sitting by the surf on a quiet beach, picnicking beside a waterfall, or soaking in a tub at home. The tile floor, which continues up the side of the tub, the countertop, and the shower curtain all play with the shades of turquoise, and then the green plant on the counter provides yet another sea-side color, the deep green of seaweed. But notice, too, that while there is a subtle water theme here, it isn't over-played with a lot of knickknacks that would detract from the clean, almost spare look. Overall, this room is a soothing, cooling retreat from the cares of the world, a bathroom to which anyone would be glad to retreat for a moment's peace.MikeSun, 21 Dec 2008 02:17:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:51http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/50/Tips-for-Hanging-Christmas-Lights.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=50http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=50&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/50/Tips-for-Hanging-Christmas-Lights.aspx Tips for Hanging Christmas Lights Want an easier way to decorate your house with Christmas lights? Here are some bright ideas on how to hang Christmas lights safely and easily. Skill level: Beginner. Estimated time: 2 hours Outlining your eaves, windows, and shrubbery with decorative lights is a sure way to enliven your home for the holidays. But hanging outdoor holiday lights can be less than a cheerful experience, particularly when you're faced with a teetering ladder and tangles of light strings that don't work. Here's how to make the job go safely and as smooth as a warm eggnog. Materials Several strings of Christmas lights Light clips for gutters and shingles Nail-on wire clips Heavy-duty extension cords Tools Tape measure Long-nose pliers Ladder Hammer Overview During the holiday season, you'll discover many types of decorative lights at home improvement centers, from conventional mini-lights and icicle lights to mesh-style light strings made for wrapping tree trunks. MikeFri, 19 Dec 2008 12:30:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:50http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/48/Tip-of-the-day.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=48http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=48&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/48/Tip-of-the-day.aspxUse ice to keep the blades in your garbage disposal sharp. One trey or 8 cubes per month should do it. MikeWed, 17 Dec 2008 12:31:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:48http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/47/Tips-on-going-green.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=47http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=47&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/47/Tips-on-going-green.aspxThe Green House Did you know that your home can be a greater source of pollution than your car? In fact, 16 percent of U.S. greenhouse gas emissions are generated from the energy used in houses nationwide. Energy used in our homes often comes from the burning of fossil fuels at power plants, which contributes to smog, acid rain, and global warming. Simply put, the less energy we use in our homes, the less air pollution we generate. Owning or renting a "green" home is good for your health, your wallet and our environment. The rewards of a Green Home include: Uses less energy, water and natural resources   Creates less waste   Has lower utility bills   Associated with fewer asthma attacks   At lower risk for mold   Is affordable   Beyond the health and environmental benefits of living in a green home, many local and state governments, utility companies and other entities across the country offer rebates, tax breaks and other incentives for adding eco-friendly elements to your life.   Related Articles in this Series:     Trends - The Green House     How Do You Define Green?     Bottom Line - How Much Green Does it Take?     Choosing Green Fixtures & Appliances  MikeTue, 16 Dec 2008 12:28:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:47http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/45/Keys-to-a-successful-remodel.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=45http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=45&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/45/Keys-to-a-successful-remodel.aspx Keep your remodeling project on track and within budget with these tips: Do your homework. When asked what they would have done differently, in searching for a top contractor respondents most often said they would have done more research beforehand, chosen their contractor more carefully, or bought different materials. To avoid those regrets, get at least three bids with three or more references from each, and interview or visit references before signing. Never jump for the cheapest bid. And with any quote, read the contract carefully, especially any fine print. The two big home centers, for example, demand full payment up front unless state laws forbid it. Keep a lid on costs. Staying within budget seemed to be a common complaint across the board. Both big home centers say they calculate some installation costs to offer preset prices and stick to them unless something happens that's outside their control--for instance, should the contractor discover termite damage, leaking pipes, or dry rot once a wall is opened up. For other installations, such as cabinets, they require an on-site visit before giving a price--with the same provision for unexpected conditions. Nevertheless, only about 45 percent of respondents said contractors from home centers were excellent at keeping costs down vs. about 55 percent for the rest. Expect surprises. No matter whom you hire, unavoidable surprises can still happen once even top contractors see what's behind or beneath whatever they need to remove. So be sure your contract includes provision for a "change order" clause--an addendum that specifically details what kind of changes require your approval before they can be made. That agreement should state how the extra work would affect overall costs and the finish date. The National Association of the Remodeling Industry suggests you put 10 percent to 20 percent of total funds into a reserve fund for unanticipated costs--at the very least, for redecorating afterward. And don't create surprise expenses. A top contractor will work with you to settle early on what you want, and stick to it. Stay involved and available. Many readers felt they weren't kept in the loop about the job's progress. To keep that from happening to you, set a specific time each day to speak with your crew's supervisor. Be sure that you have his cell-phone number and that he has yours. Inspect the day's work every evening. Mention concerns immediately to help keep problems small and resolvable. The longer you wait, the more difficult and expensive the problem can become for even a top contractor to fix. MikeMon, 15 Dec 2008 12:42:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:45http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/43/Safety-Grab-Bars.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=43http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=43&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/43/Safety-Grab-Bars.aspxSafety (Grab) Bars Grab bars are often thought of as only for the elderly, but all people can use something to grab onto in case of loss of footing. Falls in the bathroom are a leading cause of injury. Grab bars can help reduce the risk of accidents.   Grab bars around the bathtub are a necessity for safety. These bars should be institutional-grade, stainless steel and installed according to the manufacturer's directions for firm, solid support.   These bars are expensive, but under no circumstance should towel rods or improperly installed grab bars be used as bathtub aids. They will not support a person who loses balance.   Their position will be determined by the type of tub, its location and the needs of the individual. A physical or occupational therapist can help locate the grab bar(s) for maximum efficiency, based on the user's height, reach and how he gets in and out of the tub.     Diagonally placed grab bars are not recommended because the hand may slide and if footing is not secure, falls are more likely.   A person getting into the typical American bathtub (14" to 17" deep) tends to maintain an upright position while stepping into the tub.   A vertical grab bar firmly anchored to the wall at the foot of the tub (The foot of the tub is the end where the water faucets and drain are located) will greatly add to the safety of this maneuver. This vertical bar should be about 32 inches long, and placed near the outer tub edge.   If the tub is free-standing (not closed on 3-sides as in an alcove) and the end wall is too far for grab bar placement, a vertically placed pole on the access side of the tub may be used. This pole should be about 1-1/2-inch diameter and extend from floor to ceiling.   The pole should be positioned between 1'3" and 1'6" from the end of the tub and close enough to the access side to reach from a seated position. It also can be used to grasp with one hand while operating the water controlsMikeSun, 14 Dec 2008 15:40:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:43http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/40/Wallpaper-removal-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=40http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=40&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/40/Wallpaper-removal-tips.aspx Gadgets and gels can help remove wallpaper, but mostly you'll need hard work and patience. Figure A Figure B Figure C Figure D RELATED LINKS Learn about how to remove wallpaper Q: There's some old wallpaper that came with the house I just bought, and it's about as ugly as wallpaper comes. I'd love some tips on removing it so I don't remove the wall with it. A: (Brad Staggs, Ask DIY Home Repair) There are a lot of different ways to get wallpaper off and a variety of products you can use (figure A). But what you're essentially trying to do is to deactivate the adhesive that holds the paper backing onto the wall. Here's how to proceed: Materials: Paper Tiger wallpaper-perforating tool Gel wallpaper-removal solvent, or warm water mixed with vinegar in a spray bottle Scraping tool Drop cloth Safety glasses Protective gloves such as latex Safety alert: Always wear safety glasses when working with solvents on a wall, and if you have sensitive skin, wear gloves (but not latex gloves if that's what you're sensitive to!).   Remove the face plates on the walls you'll be working with, and cover the outlets with electric tape to protect them from liquids (figure B). Also put a drop cloth down to protect the carpet or floors.   If you're lucky, some paper may already be loose, and you can just start peeling. Otherwise, consider using a gadget known as the Paper Tiger (figure C). It's a roller, on the underside of which are little teeth that will perforate the wallpaper (figure D). That allows any solvent you use to get behind the paper and dissolve the adhesive more readily. Nobody's perfect: Be careful not to gouge the wall behind the paper with any perforating or scraping tools. If you do perforate the wall, fill the nicks with spackle.   Apply the gel or other commercial solvent with a paintbrush, and give it some time to soak in and loosen the wallpaper (the label should specify how long). Working smarter: A less expensive solvent option is warm water mixed with a few tablespoons of vinegar in a spray bottle.   After the solvent has a chance to soak in, start working at removal at a seam or edge of a perforation, scraping with a Paper Scraper, plastic spatula, plastic putty knife or drywall knife.   Keep applying the solvent and scraping until all the wallpaper is gone. MikeSun, 14 Dec 2008 02:49:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:40http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/39/Paint-brush-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=39http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=39&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/39/Paint-brush-tips.aspxQuality brushes can be a sizable investment. They are intended for use and re-use. A painting contractor may get years out of the right brush for the right job. I had a neighbor who had his fathers paint brush collection given to him as a bequest. That may be carried to an extreme, however discarding a $12 trim brush or a 4 inch wall brush worth $25 4 is  a waste.  After thorough cleaning always straighten the bristles with a paint brush comb. Then place the brush back in its cardboard keeper or wrap in kraft paper. Next, hang the brush up by the hole in the handle or lay it on it side not pushing its bristles against the edge of a draw or wall. When you do not store paint brushes properly, they will "finger" or "twist." Your brushes will also have curled tips that will be rendered incapable of satisfactory performance. Plus, you'll be ashamed to show them in public. Hang them on your workshop wall and be proud of them.  MikeFri, 12 Dec 2008 23:32:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:39http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/37/20-Plumbing-Dos-and-Donts.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=37http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=37&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/37/20-Plumbing-Dos-and-Donts.aspx20 Plumbing Do's and Don'ts DO Run water at full pressure when using disposer.   Periodically remove and clean all aerators.   Inspect and test toilets for leaks annually.   Open and close all cutoff valves twice a year.   Keep toilet seat down when not in use.   Check caulk line on walls around tubs and showers regularly.   Check inside edge of shower door track to make sure there are no leaks.   Shut off all outside valves in wintertime in cold climates.   Open sink cupboard doors on outside walls in severe cold weather.   Oil parts in toilet tanks that are above water level.   Open drain on water heater twice a year to remove sediment.   Spray oil or WD-40 on seldom used valves to prevent seizing.   Keep your plumber's phone number near the phone in case of emergency.   Turn off hot water system when leaving on vacation.   Teach children to always turn cold water on first and hot water off first.   Pour two or three gallons of boiling water down shower or tub drains once a month.   Insulate water pipes that may be exposed to freezing temperatures or wind.   Use a blow dryer or heat gun to thaw frozen pipes.   Keep warranty card handy on all appliances, including water heaters and softeners.   Have a diagram of your sewer system handy in case of emergency.   DON'T Put coffee grounds in your sink drains   Hang a knick-knack shelf over your toilet.   Pour hot water into toilet. It could crack the bowl.   Put any mechanical cleaning device in your toilet tank.   Throw disposable diapers in toilet.   Keep wastebaskets under sinks. Bumping drain pipes cause leaks.   Throw sanitary napkins in toilet.   Run the dishwasher if disposer is full of food waste.   Use drain cleaners containing lye.   Use toilet tank lid for a shelf.   Let children play in bathroom with small toys.   Hang a shelf for heavy objects over a sink.   Plant trees or large shrubs over sewer lines   Dig deep holes or trenches in your yard before locating water, gas, and sewer lines   Place cornhusks, artichokes, onionskins, celery, or other high-fiber material in a disposer.   Pour fats or cooking oils into your sink.   Leave garden hoses attached to the hose bib in winter.   Use open flames or torches to thaw frozen pipes.   Hire a plumber to do work without understanding precisely what he plans to do.   Leave water turned on to hoses for washing machines, dishwashers, and garden hoses when not in use.   MikeThu, 11 Dec 2008 23:09:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:37http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/35/Design-Tips-for-the-Bath.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=35http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=35&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/35/Design-Tips-for-the-Bath.aspxDesign Tips for the Bath: This is a partial list only and is provided as a courtesy to assist you in planning new bathrooms. Please consult a professional for the latest building codes and style trends.   Floorplan: In the overall layout, try not to make the toilet visible from outside the bathroom. It should also not be the first thing you see when entering the room. Allow at least 32" for all walking areas, including doorways   Room Size: Half-Bath (wash basin, toilet) minimum size is 16 sq. ft (4'x4')   Full Bath (wash basin, toilet, tub and/or shower) 36 - 40 sq. ft. (5'x8')   If a tub is to be included, one wall must be min. of 5 ft. to accommodate it. It is best to buy the tub before construction begins and have it built in.   If the toilet is to be in a separate room, that room must be ay least 36in. x 66in.   Be sure to include grab bars, lights, and ventilation.   Clearances: These are minimums. In all cases, more is better. - All fixtures must be at least 30 inches apart, center-to-center,   and 15 inches from the center to the nearest wall or obstruction. - You must provide a space 30x48 in. in front of a lavatory.   Up to 19 in. of the 48 can be under the lav if there is adequate knee space. - Leave 24 in. in front of a toilet or bidet. - Leave 30 in. space beside the full length of the tub.   Sink / Vanity: - Double bowl vanities require 60 to 72 in. of space. - Use a single bowl if two people are not expected to use the bathroom at the same time. - Standard vanity height is 30 inches.   Tall people will be more comfortable if the height is raised to 32 inches. - For right-handed people, install the bowl to the right side, for left-handed people, the left. - Given the option, choose a vanity with the most drawers.   Shower stalls: should be at least 32" x 32" but the trend is for larger showers, and the larger the better. If a swinging door is installed, it should swing outward to avoid someone being trapped inside. A bench or footrest should be provided, at least 12 inches deep or more. If no bench is provided, consider a footrest niche 14 to 18 inches off the floor depending on your height for washing or shaving legs. Make sure the valve is a pressure-balanced type to prevent scalding.   Safety: All floors must be of slip-resistant material. Bathroom floors are often wet. All electrical outlets must be protected with a ground-fault circuit interrupter and no switch can be within 60 inches of a water source. Install grab bars near toilets and tubs, and inside of shower units. Mount all grab bars into studs, not just drywall or tile. Mount two in the shower, one at the entrance and one at the water source. They should be angled at 45 degrees.   Shower: Include both a standard and a hand held showerhead in the shower. If you can only have one, make it a hand held unit mounted on an adjustable vertical pole. The shower valve should be able to be turned on outside the shower, with the spray aimed away from the entrance.   Tubs: - Tubs mounted in platforms should be no more than one step off the floor.   The step should be no more than 7 1/4 inches high and at least 10 inches deep. - Avoid sunken tubs as they often lead to accidents. - Tub or whirlpool faucets should be reachable from outside the tub. - Grab bars should be installed to provide safe access and egress. - Consider installing a hand held showerhead to make them easier to clean. - Be sure to provide for access to the plumbing and whirlpool motors,   even if it's inside a closet in an adjoining room.   Storage: Be sure to provide storage space near lavatories for toiletries, shampoos, and towels. Make sure if your plan includes a bidet that you provide a place for soap and towels close by. Tissue holders should be mounted 26 inches off the floor to the front of toilets.   Install adequate electrical outlets. Bathrooms typically use more than one expects. You should install an outlet on either side of the vanity.   Colors affect the perception of size in a room. Bathrooms are usually the smallest rooms in the house, and as such should usually contain less vibrant and overpowering colors. As their size grows, the boldness with which you choose the colors can increase. Too many colors in a confined space can be confusing to the eye. Try to maintain a theme and avoid too stark a contrast. Light walls and floors make a room seem larger. The same is true of clear shower door glass. Patterns made of small elements seem to push walls farther away.   Mirrors expand space in every direction. They should be used freely, the larger the better, but try to only install one on each wall to avoid visual confusion. Also glass block walls, windows and skylights make rooms seem bigger. Avoid vertical lines. They add height to a room, but reduce visual space. Horizontal rooms make a room seem larger.   Enclosed shelves reduce visual space. Open shelving can make a space seem bigger. Make sure all doors swing clear of fixtures.   Provide adequate ventilation to reduce condensation and moisture. Check local codes. A window may meet the code but a fan is better, and even better in the shower where most moisture arises.      MikeWed, 10 Dec 2008 23:25:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:35http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/31/Keeping-it-clean.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=31http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=31&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/31/Keeping-it-clean.aspxLiving With Your Selections   When selecting faucets, fixtures and countertops, many people forget about care and maintenance issues, until it is too late. For example, the new trend-setting glass counters and vessel styled lavatories may not be a wise choice for active households. While these items can be striking and modern looking, they are a challenge to keep clean and free of fingerprints, and they are more easily broken.   When making your choices, carefully consider the maintenance levels of the materials available, in addition to looks.   When selecting faucets, fixtures and coutnertops, many people forget about care and maintenance issues, until it is too late.   When making your choices, consider your lifestyle. For instance, the trendy glass counters and vessel styled lavatories may not be a wise choice for active households. While these items can be striking and modern looking, they are a challenge to keep clean and free of fingerprints, and they are more easily broken.   Always test any cleaning solution on an inconspicuous area before applying to the entire surface. Remember to rinse completely. Do not allow cleaners to sit or soak on surfaces; wipe immediately with a soft, dampened sponge or cloth. Do not use abrasive materials, brushes or scouring pads.   All cleaning products named below are available in local super markets Surface Cleaning Faucets   Cast Iron Sinks and Whirlpools/Tubs   Porcelain Sinks and Tubs   Stainless Steel Sinks   Corian Sinks and Counter Tops   China Sinks and Toilets   Acrylic Showers and Whirlpools/Tubs, Toilet Seats   Whirlpool, Hot Tub System Cleaning   Decorative Products, Shower Doors, Vanity Tops   Health & Safety Concerns Whirlpools, Hot Tubs & Bacterial Infections ... The danger is real, prevention is easy     Faucets Clean with mild soap and water or a mild liquid detergent. Products such as Windex® Original or Fantastik® All Purpose Cleaner are generally considered safe to use.   After every use or cleaning, it is always best to wipe dry with a soft cloth to prevent water spotting and mineral build-up. Faucet manufacturers recommend that you clean and wax regularly. You may use an aerosol furniture polish, appliance wax or auto paste wax for this purpose.   Do not use cleaners containing ammonia, bleach, abrasives, or other strong chemicals, as these can damage some faucet finishes.   Avoid products that state on the label that they remove tarnish and rust, and those containing hydrofluoric, hydrochloric and/or phosphoric acids or caustic agents.   Avoid industrial cleaners and abrasive cleaners, such as those used for toilet bowls, heavy-duty scrub sponges or scouring pads. These will scratch and damage the finish.   Hardwater Deposits: To remove hard water deposits and soap scum, use a 50/50 mix of vinegar or liquid Lysol® All Purpose Cleaner and water. For stubborn stains and/or mineral deposits, a mild abrasive cleaner can be used. Current examples of mild abrasive cleaners are Bon-Ami, Barkeeper's Friend, or Soft Scrub without bleach.   Gold-plated faucets or accessories should only be cleaned with warm water, and wiped dry or it will form unsightly water deposits.   Learn more about Faucet Materials/Finishes         Cast Iron Sinks and Whirlpools/Tubs Be careful not to leave dirty dishes, coffee grounds, tea bags or other staining materials in contact with the enamel surface for long periods of time. Rinse thoroughly after each use and wipe with a soft cloth. Clean with a scrub-free mildew remover or a mild detergent like 409® or Top Job®. Use abrasives or abrasive cleaners sparingly. Use a soft nylon brush on the tub bottom's non-slip surface. Do not use steel wool, wire brushes or abrasive sponge pads. See: Cleaning Whirlpool, Hot Tub Systems       Porcelain Sinks and Tubs Porcelain can be glazed or unglazed but it can be stained. Most stains are easily removed however. Use the treatments indicated for the following stains:   Coffee Dampen a cloth with water, dip it in baking soda and scrub the mixture over the stain Fruit Juice or Tea Wash with a solution of 1-tablespoon trisodium phosphate and 1 quart hot water. Rinse, then flood with a solution of 3 tablespoons laundry bleach in 1 quart of warm water. Grease Scrub using a stiff-bristled brush with a strong solution of heavy-duty household detergent or a solution of ½ cup trisodium phosphate and 1 gallon of very hot water. Hard Water Scum Scour the area thoroughly with a solution made of equal parts of vinegar and warm water using a nylon scouring pad. Mildew Sponge with solution of ½ cup laundry bleach in 1 quart water. For stubborn stains use a commercial mildew remover containing sodium hypochlorite and sodium carbonate. (Wear gloves and keep the room well ventilated). Alternatively, Mix a thick paste of household scouring powder and water. Oil Mix a thick paste of household scouring powder and water. Apply the paste to the stain and allow it to stand overnight. Paint Remove fresh oil-base paint with a cloth dipped in turpentine or paint thinner. Wash away the residue with a solution of ¼ cup trisodium phosphate mixed with 1 gallon of warm water. Remove fresh water-base paint with a cloth dampened with warm water and mild household detergent; such as dishwashing liquid. Scrub the area with a soft-bristled brush. Soap Scum Use baking soda in warm water. For heavy deposits use a solution of 1 tbsp of trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water. Rinse thoroughly. You may also use a solution of warm water and ammonia. Unknown stains Use mild solution of chlorine bleach. Do not use full strength or let it remain on the surface for more than a few seconds. You may also apply a stiff paste of whiting (calcium carbonate) and household ammonia; let it stand for one hour, then wash it off with soapy water.     Stainless Steel Sinks Clean stainless steel once a week. Apply stainless steel cleaner/polish with a nonabrasive cloth or sponge, working with, not across, the grain. If a cleaner with chloride is used, rinse the surface immediately to prevent corrosion. Blot dry any water from metal surfaces water evaporates and forms water deposits. Use a dabbing action to dry metal, not an abrasive or rubbing action. Clean with a damp sponge and buff dry. If finish becomes dull, it can be restored by the use of a mild cleanser such as Bar Keeper's Friend®, always scrubbing with the grain. Do not allow liquid soaps to dry on surface. Do not allow bleaches to remain on surface of stainless steel or they could cause pitting. >       Corian Sinks and Counter Tops Use soapy water or ammonia-based cleaner for most stains. Remove water marks with damp cloth and towel dry. For more difficult stains use an abrasive cleanser and a new green ScotchBrite® pad. Occasionally clean by filling the sink one-quarter full with a 50/50 water/bleach solution. Let soak for 15 minutes, then wash sides and bottom as solution drains and thoroughly rinse. You can remove minor cuts and scratches yourself by sanding with 180- or 220-grit fine sandpaper until cut is gone. Restore finish with an abrasive cleanser and ScotchBrite® pad.       China Sinks and Toilets Use soft abrasive cleaners such as Soft Scrub® to clean China. Strong abrasives will scratch and dull the finish. Dry with a soft cloth. Use only toilet bowl cleaners on the inside of the bowl. Do not clean the inside of the tank as you may damage the flush valve or other working parts. Wipe cleaning solutions from any plastic or plated parts immediately. Over time, hard water deposits may clog toilet rim holes and trapways. To handle this problem, purchase a commercial cleaner that's recommended for the removal of hard water deposits such as Bar Keepers Friend Lime & Rust Remover®. Follow all instructions on the package.       Acrylic Showers and Whirlpools/Tubs, Toilet Seats   Surfaces   Wipe out bath or shower after each use with soft cloth or squeegee. Use only a mild detergent (such as dishwashing soap). Do not use abrasive cleaners. Avoid detergents, disinfectants, or cleaning products in aerosol cans.   Be sure to wipe off any cleaner spill, especially from bumpers and hinges of toilet seats. Restore the toilet seat's gloss and luster with an application of no-wax polish. Pine-based cleaners are not recommended. To restore dull or scratched units, apply white automotive polishing compound with a clean rag. Rub scratches and dull areas vigorously. Wipe off residue. Follow with a coat of white automotive paste wax. Do not wax areas where you walk or stand.     Whirlpool, Hot Tub System Cleaning To prevent bacterial growth in Whirlpool and Hot Tub piping, clean the system at least twice a month, following this procedure: Adjust the jets so there is no air induction. Fill the unit with hot water to a level above the highest jets. (Caution: don't start the whirlpool without making sure there is water above the highest jets. Running a whirlpool without water will damage the pump seals causing the pump to fail or leak.) Add to the water two teaspoons of low-foaming dishwasher detergent such as Calgonite or Cascade (powder), and four ounces of household bleach, such as Clorox. Run the whirlpool for 10-15 minutes with the air control fully open for maximum turbulence. Drain, refill the tub with cold clear water to 2"-3" above the highest jets Run the unit again for another 5-10 minutes to "rinse." Then, drain the tub completely. Wipe dry with a soft cloth. Normal household disinfectants and cleaners such as bleach, detergents, vinegar, or baking soda are NOT completely effective in removing whirlpool or hot tub contaminants. See:Whirlpools, Hot Tubs & Bacterial Infections for more information,       Decorative Products, Shower Doors, Vanity Tops   Do not use bristle brushes or abrasive sponges. They will scratch decorated surfaces. Never use abrasive cleaners. Gold used on decorative products is like fine jewelry. Use only warm water to clean. Dry with a soft cloth. Do not let cleaners sit and soak on surfaces. Use a shower squeegee to clean the glass doors after showering. Rinse and wipe fixtures after cleaning to prevent soap buildup. On delicate surfaces use plenty of water, rub gently and rinse. To avoid lime build-up in hard water areas, be sure to always wipe the product dry after each use with a soft cloth. MikeMon, 08 Dec 2008 23:45:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:31http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/30/Shower-door-basics.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=30http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=30&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/30/Shower-door-basics.aspx Shower Doors Part 1- The Basics (this page) Part 2 - Measuring & Installing Shower Doors   Part 1 - The Basics When installing any type of shower, provisions must be made to make sure the water stays in the shower area. This can be most easily accomplished by use of either a shower curtain or a shower door.   Shower curtains have the advantage of being generally inexpensive and easily replaced, but their disadvantages are that they are hard to clean; they lack durability and wear out rather quickly. Light doesn't penetrate them well. Most important, they're also usually inefficient at holding water in the shower.   Fixed doors solve all of these problems.   Shower doors are sold in a variety of configurations depending on the opening that they are designed to cover. This may be the opening over a tub, the open side of a one-piece enclosure, or the doorway to a custom shower.   Shower doors may operate as sliding (bypass) doors, swinging doors, or a combination of both (bi-fold). The choice depends largely on personal preference, but also on the layout of the bathroom.   ADA compliant shower doors do not have a bottom track and must provide barrier free access. For wheel chair access, safety reasons and/or individual needs, a heavy-weight, hotel style shower curtain could be the best choice.   Sliding Doors Sliding, or bypass doors are the most common. These doors are sold in two or three sections. They use the least amount of space. They glide in a track, both at top and bottom. Sliding doors are attractive and are easy to care for.   Most problems that occur involve the track, which can be difficult to keep clean. The rollers can wear out or fail over time and may need to be replaced, but quality units can give many years of trouble-free service.   Sliding doors are most frequently mounted over bathtubs because of the length of the opening. They require a space at least twice the width of one door.   A disadvantage of this type is that they restrict access to the tub, making it more difficult to clean and provide an obstacle when bathing children or pets. They can sometimes be difficult to clean thoroughly because they overlap even when closed.   Bi-Fold / Curved Doors Bi-fold doors are a good choice when the opening is narrow and circumstances don't allow for a large sheet of glass to swing into the bath area. These doors are made in folding sections that open like an accordion and use minimal space, while providing full access to the shower.   Opening inward, bi-fold doors prevent water from dripping onto the bathroom floor.   The disadvantage of bi-fold doors is that they ride in a track like a bypass door, usually at the bottom, and sometimes the twisting movement of the doors causes them to bind and not move freely. The tracks also tend to collect dirt and oils and can be difficult to keep clean.   Like the bi-fold door, curved shower doors offer the advantage of "zero clearance" and are the perfect solution for corner installations.   The door itself is a curved glass panel attached to a frame at both the top and bottom for stability and smooth operation. The door is reversible for right or left access. The tempered glass door is arced for a full 90°, creating a larger and more spacious shower area than standard corner enclosures   Swinging Doors Swinging doors are made as wide as 48", but rarely are they more than 36" in width.   When swinging doors are used to cover a wide opening, they're usually combined with matching fixed panels.   In large, spacious baths, a wide swinging door adds a touch of elegance and grandeur, but care must be given to ensure that the door doesn't swing into sinks, towel bars, doorknobs, or other barriers that might present a hazard.   Swinging doors may be hinge-mounted or pivoting, and are secured with magnetic catches.   Large, heavy doors are normally hinged, and these hinges can be single action (one direction only), or double-action (swinging both ways).   Safety standards require all single-action hinged doors to open outwards to prevent someone from being trapped inside the shower should he become incapacitated.   A double-action hinged frameless door, on the other hand, may swing both ways.   Framed / Frameless Doors Doors may be framed or frameless. Framed doors have aluminum framing on all sides of the panels. Frameless have none.   On frameless doors, the handles and hinges are mounted directly through the glass rather than being attached to the frames.   Frameless doors have the advantage of giving a room a larger, more open feeling, and in being easier to clean. Fitted with clear glass, they show off a decorative wall tile or marble.   Because they lack the protection of metal framework, they are usually made of thicker, heavier glass (3/8" to 1/2" vs. 3/16" to 1/4"on framed doors); this gives a feeling of luxury and durability. When the doors have mounted side panels, those panels are often framed even when the door is not. Frameless doors are no more dangerous than framed doors. Glass, while being quite fragile, is actually very strong on its edge. Thick tempered glass is extremely durable and difficult to break. It also becomes safety glass through the tempering process. Should it break, it will shatter into tiny pieces, thus reducing the risk of injury.   The Frames Frames are generally made of anodized, extruded aluminum.   Anodizing gives the frame a corrosion-resistant surface that is chemically inert, but porous and able to accept dye into the coating. In the final stage of the process, a seal coating is applied that helps retain the color and helps the aluminum to better resist staining and corrosion.   The color can fade over time if exposed to ultraviolet light or to harsh cleaning chemicals, however.   Hard water can leave mineral deposits on the glass or extrusion that can cause spotting; these deposits can be removed by wiping off the door each time it is used.   Any chemical strong enough to remove accumulated mineral buildup will also attack the anodic coating. That is why most manufacturers recommend only Glass Plus or Comet Bathroom Cleaner (not cleanser).   Most manufacturers offer frames in a wide variety of finish colors to match any decor. Frameless doors are typically fitted with polished brass or chrome hardware, although the trend is to even more stylized materials.   Glass Options Glass is offered in a variety of styles. While they are generally either clear or opaque, several other types are available, from reflective to a choice of patterns.   Obscure is the most popular pattern, but glass may also be fluted, etched, or beveled. Some manufacturers even offer stained glass in some models. Clear glass is popular in some locales, but it should be noted that clear glass is very unforgiving when being cleaned. Streaks and spots are much more obvious than in opaque styles.   Basco sells a number of units specially built to fit specific branded shower enclosures. These also market a special line offering a Quick 'nStall feature, designed to fit a number of typical situations. This system cuts installation time in half and eliminates glazing, because glass panels are snapped into the framework at the factory.   Custom / Specialized Doors Specialized units are available for neo-corner showers, and for curved showers. Custom Enclosures can be designed in any height, width, and configuration. A number of matching accessories are also available for most units/.   Whether for standard or custom applications, curved shower doors add practicality as well as elegance to any bath. The tempered glass door of BASCO's Contours is arced for a full 90°, creating a larger and more spacious shower area than standard corner enclosures. The curved glass panel is attached at both the top and bottom for stability and smooth operation.   If the door is to be used for a steam unit (as shown at the right), a transom panel over the door seals the enclosure to the ceiling.   In these cases, regardless of whether a sliding or swing enclosure is preferred, vinyl gaskets are installed between the panels and completely around the unit to keep the steam from escaping.   Considerations When choosing a shower door, some thought should be given to where to place towel bars where they will be convenient.   Some doors come with integrated towel bars. In these cases, note that towel bars are not substitutes for grab bars. They are not designed for this purpose.   Installation Whether you are replacing an existing shower door, or building a new shower enclosure, proper measuring is critical for a perfect fit.  MikeSat, 06 Dec 2008 15:20:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:30http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/28/The-Importance-of-Bathroom-Cabinets.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=28http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=28&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/28/The-Importance-of-Bathroom-Cabinets.aspxThe Importance of Bathroom Cabinets One solution to storage problems in a bathroom is choosing the right bathroom cabinets. Having sufficient cabinets in the bathroom is essential to keeping the clutter off of the countertops, window sills, and even the floor. Bathroom cabinets can house towels and washcloths, spare toilet paper, beauty and hygiene supplies plus a rubber ducky or two for the kiddies. Choosing Bathroom Cabinets Choosing bathroom cabinets doesn't have to be a tough job. First you need to decide if you will use stock or custom made cabinets. Then you need to decide what will be stored in the cabinets. If that is determined before you put the cabinets in, you are more likely to choose the correct size cabinets for your needs. Finally, you need to choose the style, color and material that the cabinets will be. Stock Bathroom Cabinets vs. Custom Bathroom Cabinets If you are choosing stock cabinets, it is good to know that they typically start at 9 inches wide and can get as wide as 48 inches. Usually stock cabinets get wider by three inch increments so you can choose 9 inches, 12 inches, 15 inches, etc. Their heights can vary. Stock cabinets can usually arrive from the manufacturer fairly quickly. If you need cabinets that are not a standard size, you will need to choose custom made cabinets. Usually custom cabinetry is necessary if you have a space that isn't the same measurements as a stock cabinet or if you need to store an item that doesn't fit into a stock cabinet. Custom cabinets are more expensive than stock cabinets and take longer to arrive. However, they can make the difference between a room looking finished and a room looking simply like it came with the house. Bathroom Cabinet Materials The material that the cabinets are made from can make a big difference in the cost. Better woods can be very expensive, but there are usually laminate alternatives that imitate better woods yet are still affordable. In addition to wood, bathroom cabinets can be made from metal. Once a material is decided on, its time to choose the style and a color if necessary.MikeFri, 05 Dec 2008 19:53:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:28http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/26/Tip-of-the-day.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=26http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=26&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/26/Tip-of-the-day.aspxGlue a strip of sandpaper to the lid of your toolbox. It will come in handy for many jobs, including sharpening tools and pencils.MikeWed, 03 Dec 2008 01:56:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:26http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/25/Colors-That-Bring-Out-the-Best-in-Your-Kitchen.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=25http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=25&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/25/Colors-That-Bring-Out-the-Best-in-Your-Kitchen.aspxColors That Bring Out the Best in Your Kitchen Everything old in the kitchen can look new again with a splash of color. By Susan Kleinman A splash of color makes the stainless steel sink pop. Pair Hot Colors With Stainless Appliances What are the hottest colors to pair with stainless steel appliances? Find out from our designers! Although there are many black, white and colored appliances on the market today, stainless steel is still the most popular choice, says Bob Garner, Certified Master Kitchen and Bath Designer, President of the National Kitchen and Bath Association. This is undoubtedly one reason that deep, dark paint colors are becoming more popular for kitchens. "Although kitchens have traditionally been painted white or pale colors, there is a major movement today toward saturated colors," says Margaret Walch, director of The Color Association of the United States. "Because stainless steel reflects a lot of light, kitchens with many metallic surfaces can take an especially bold, bright color." There are several trendy shades that look particularly striking with stainless, says Walch, whose association forecasts color trends. "For a room with a lot of stainless steel, I'd suggest what we at the Color Association call Kabuki red — a deep, saturated red, such as the one shown above, Benjamin Moore's Exotic Red (2086-10). That would look smashing with stainless steel." If the thought of an entirely red kitchen makes you jumpy, Walch says, consider just one red wall. "You can either paint one wall red," she says, "or do a red tile backsplash. Either way it will give you a dynamic effect." Slightly less dynamic but equally appealing is a deep, saturated yellow, says Walch. "There's no need to stick to the pale shades of yellow most often used in kitchens," she says. "Instead, try Spanish bloom yellow, such as Benjamin Moore's Banana Yellow (2002-2), pictured above. People like their kitchens to wake them up a bit in the morning. A deep, bright color helps make the kitchen more eye-opening."   Next >> 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 MikeTue, 02 Dec 2008 01:20:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:25http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/20/Remodeling-Tips-for-the-Master-Bath.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=20http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=20&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/20/Remodeling-Tips-for-the-Master-Bath.aspxRemodeling Tips for the Master Bath   When remodeling your master bathroom, consider incorporating luxury into the design to create a customized retreat. By Alicia Garceau A two-person soaker tub is a popular master bath addition.   An atmosphere of personal indulgence, which used to be the domain of day spas, is finding its way into master baths remodels. Limited only by imagination and a project's budget, standard master baths are turning into customized retreats. The good news is luxury can be incorporated into any design. "We're starting to put in more luxurious items," says Sara Ann Busby, National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) president-elect and owner of Sara Busby Designs, Elk Rapids, Mich. STYLE Unsure about how to describe your desired style? Not a problem. A book like "Yes/No Design: Discover Your Decorating Style With Taste-Revealing Exercises and Examples," by Diane Love (Rizzoli International Publications) can help sort through different styles. Paying a visit to decorator show houses, kitchen and bath showrooms and plumbing showrooms provides the opportunity to see bathrooms firsthand and get ideas for your project, says Jessica Clock, a designer with Carmel Kitchen Specialists, Inc, Carmel, Ind. MATERIALS For master baths, no material is too luxurious or too unusual. "[People] are going over the top," Busby says. Of course, "over the top" can mean different things to different people. To some, it might mean splurging on granite countertops. To others it could mean going top-of-the-line from top to bottom. LAYOUT To create a custom floor plan, consider hiring a certified bathroom designer, who will analyze the size of the space and your family's needs. Some things to discuss with the designer include: Shower or Bath: The master bath has undergone some changes in recent years. Giant tubs, once wildly popular, have fallen out of favor. Instead, people are choosing custom showers including overhead showerheads, wall-mounted showerheads, hand-held showerheads, shower tiles, rain bars, body sprays and steam showers. "People aren't spending the time in the tubs," Busby says. "They can get the same benefit and be in and out in five minutes [with a shower]." Choosing a custom shower with a smaller bathtub can have a big impact on the layout of a bath, too. "A big tub with a nice surround takes up a tremendous amount of space. We can do a great big custom shower in a lot less space," Busby says. Number of Sinks: Often Busby's clients will ask for two sinks in a master bath remodel. After discussing the matter further, most often what the clients really need is one sink and more counter and mirror space. "It's rare we put in two sinks," she says. Plumbing for a second sink can raise the price of a remodel, so it's wise to give the matter careful thought before deciding on the number of lavatories. Delicate Matters: "Bathrooms are much more personal than talking about a kitchen," Busby says. Though it may seem a bit awkward to discuss things like a separate room for the toilet or dual showerheads with a designer, doing so will result in a better bathroom remodel. Universal Design: Another trend in master bathrooms is the use of universal design. This approach, designed to accommodate people of all ages and abilities, includes wider doorways, showers with no raised lip around the bottom, larger shower doors and more room around fixtures. Once thought of as industrial-looking, universal elements such as grab bars now blend seamlessly into even the most luxurious master bathrooms. THE DETAILS When it comes to extras in a master bathroom remodel, look toward the luxurious. Hang an extravagant chandelier over a soaking tub; add built-in warming drawers for towels or install a pass-through fireplace for ambience and warmth. You might also consider increasing the master bathroom's convenience by housing your washer and dryer, adjacent dressing rooms or even massage tables in the space. Sound systems and televisions have become quite common in master bathrooms, but today's remodels are taking the concept to a new level. Flat screens are becoming more popular and in-mirror models, where the television is visible only when it is on, are another option. A master bath should be a calm, quiet retreat, and that can be tough to pull off with the noise from a television or stereo bouncing of the room's hard surfaces. "I would be aware that you want to put some softening materials [like plush towels and fabric window treatments] into the space," Busby says. These finishing touches will add that extra bit of luxury to an already spa-like master bath remodel. MikeSun, 30 Nov 2008 23:10:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:20http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/18/Safty-tip-of-the-day.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=18http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=18&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/18/Safty-tip-of-the-day.aspxTo reduce the risk of smashing your fingers when hammering, hold the nail between the teeth of a comb and strike the hammer.MikeSat, 29 Nov 2008 13:49:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:18http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/16/Tip-of-the-day.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=16http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=16&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/16/Tip-of-the-day.aspx   Put a dab of glue inside the knob of a dimmer switch to keep it from popping off.MikeSat, 29 Nov 2008 02:11:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:16http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/10/Choosing-the-perfect-tile.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=10http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=10&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/10/Choosing-the-perfect-tile.aspxJust the Facts Expert advice on choosing the perfect tile for your project. Q: I’m thinking of bringing tile into my new house in several ways—the kitchen, the bath, some flooring with mosaics or decorative accents—but I’m not really sure what to choose for each application. Can you help? A: There are three basic types of tile. Knowing the characteristics of each will help you choose the right one for the job.  Ceramic tile is made from different types of clay that are pressed and fired in a kiln. The tiles can be glazed with a mixture of metal oxides for color and ground glass for a hard surface. Ceramic tiles range from vitreous (water resistant) to nonvitreous (not). “The benefit of ceramic tile is that it’s easy to clean and practically maintenance free,” says Ron Maddox of Dal-Tile. “The glaze makes it very durable and also allows manufacturers to create many custom colors. Ceramic tile offers the most design versatility.” Use ceramic tile on kitchen counters and backsplashes and in bathrooms. Be aware that ceramic tile can chip or crack, revealing that the color is only applied to the surface. Porcelain tile is made of highly refined clay that is fired at very high temperatures so each piece is extremely dense and durable. “It’s the most durable tile you can find,” says Ron Maddox of Dal-Tile. Porcelain usually has more texture and can look like natural stone. Unlike ceramic tiles that show red or grey in the middle when chipped, porcelain tiles are the same color throughout. Porcelain tiles are a good choice for kitchens and baths, as well. They also make great flooring. Natural stone includes marble, granite, slate, limestone, soapstone, and travertine. “Natural stone flooring is produced by Mother Nature,” says Steve Pickert of IMC. “Sitting in a room with natural stone makes you comfortable, and then you realize that what was once a mountain somewhere in Italy is now your floor.” Stone tile is a beautiful option for your kitchen and bath. Softer stones (some marbles and sandstone) are not a good flooring option for high-traffic areas, such as the kitchen or family room, but would be beautiful in your dining room. There are many durable stone options that can withstand the daily wear and tear when installed in high-traffic areas. Q: I told my contractor that I want stone tile and he asked which one. I thought slate was the only option. A: Not so. Not only can you choose from several types, there are also finish options to consider. “Natural stone as a decorating option has been increasingly popular in the last few years,” says Luke Gilcrease of Lucasso Natural Stone. “Stone works well with many looks, whether slick and modern or warm and traditional.” Stone can be polished to a brilliant shine or honed to a duller but less slippery finish. When tumbled, stone tiles have an antique and rustic look. “Stone also has the advantage of not losing its color as man-made tiles can,” says Kerry McCauley of International Granite & Marble. It’s important to consult a professional when selecting stone because some varieties are softer than others and better suited to certain areas of your home. Here’s a crash course: • Veined and beautifully shaded, marble is classic and elegant. It’s also a softer stone, affected by dirt and traffic, so it’s not the best choice for the foyer. • Rich with mineral flecks, granite is one of the most durable choices. It resists fading and wear and is easy to maintain. Avoid slips in the kitchen and bath areas by choosing a honed finish. • A popular choice for showers and bathrooms, travertine is a translucent stone referred to as alabaster by the ancient Egyptians. Seal travertine to increase its durability. • Slate has built-in traction with natural clefts in the surface of tiles. It is highly durable and resists abrasion. • Soapstone is a common choice for countertops. Though it can be scratched, it is stain resistant and just needs a bit of mineral oil now and then to seal it. • Some of the finest limestone is quarried in Israel. Often mistaken for marble, limestone is harder and can be less expensive. Q: I went to a showroom and picked out a tile I like on my own, but my designer says it won’t work. I thought tile was tile. A: “Sounds like you might have chosen a wall tile for your floor, or vice versa,” says Kerry McCauley of International Granite & Marble. These are some general rules of thumb about tile installation: • You can use floor tiles on your walls, but not wall tiles on floors. Tile made specifically for walls—usually of ceramic or glass—is not durable enough for the abuse your floors take. • Of course, stone is a perfect fit for any flooring need, indoors or out, but keep polished stone inside and away from wet areas as it can be treacherously slippery. • Floor tile should be rated at least semivitreous (see “Terms of the Trade”). • When tiling your countertop, remember to choose either floor tile (the more-durable option) or wall tile (the more-options option) that is impervious to water. • Porcelain tiles are vitreous and are perfect for bathroom or kitchen floors, but they should be sealed when used around the tub. • The Porcelain Enamel Institute rates the wear resistance of tile from class 1 to 5. The lowest rating is okay for your bathroom; the highest is suitable for a football stadium, so it can handle your pets, your kids, and your kids’ friends.MikeWed, 26 Nov 2008 23:16:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:10http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/9/Tiling-Tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=9http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=9&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/9/Tiling-Tips.aspxPlumb Walls Nothing looks worse in a ceramic tile job than edge or corner tiles that grow or shrink because a wall is out of plumb. High quality ceramic tiles are made to exacting standards. If you start out level and plumb, so will the tiles. If a wall is out of plumb, you will soon be cutting progressively larger or smaller tiles as you go up the corner. If you have an opportunity to shim the walls or you are building new, get the walls right! Use the best studs with no crowns in them. Drywall or Greenboard? Tens of thousands of ceramic tile jobs around the nation are failing because the tile was installed over the wrong substrate. Twenty two years ago, I was guilty of installing tile on both drywall and then waterproof (that's how the distributor marketed it) drywall that had a green paper. Both materials are inferior products for a long term installation in a shower or a bathtub area. Water passes through grout seams and simply causes the paper covering the gypsum cores to deteriorate. The Right Substrate We know that drywall is an inferior base for wall ceramic tile in a bathroom. It will just barely pass for a kitchen backsplash. The best choice is cement board. Ceramic wall tile that is properly glued or mortared to dust free cement board will last indefinitely. Install this board with galvanized roofing nails or screws. Many cement board manufacturers recommend that you tape the seams with fiberglass tape and thinset. I find that this creates a nasty hump in the wall that telegraphs right through the tile. There is another way to successfully treat the seams and edges of cement board. Caulk Before You Tile I prefer to hold the cement board up from the tub edge 3/16th inch and silicone caulk the gap. I also like to create a 1/8 inch gap in the corners and at all other cement board seams. I caulk those as well with 100 percent silicone caulk BEFORE any tile is installed. My personal shower and tub tile has had silicone sealed joints for 12 years with no leakage whatsoever. How Much Material? Ceramic tile is commonly sold by the square foot. Calculate how many square feet you intend to cover and add 7 percent for waste and cuts. It is also a good idea to have at least 5 square feet of tile left at the end of the job. You or a future homeowner will thank you! Trim tiles are often sold by the piece or lineal foot. These can be expensive so calculate these closely. It is wise to end up with 2 or 3 of these leftover as well. Adhesive Types The most common adhesive used is an organic one that is water based. It is easy to work with and holds tile to cement board very well. It has a thick consistency and when fresh is easy to work with a notched trowel. You can also use thinset mortar. This is simply cement mixed with fine silica sand and often fortifiers. Thinset is not a material for a novice to work with! Tile Tools What tools do you need to complete a simple tile job? A tape measure, pencil, tile cutter, nippers, a 1/4 by 1/4 inch V notched trowel, a hammer, some 6d finish nails, 8 lineal feet of straight 1/4 inch wood lattice strip, a putty knife, a 3 inch wide bladed knife, a grout sponge, a grout float, several buckets, and an accurate 4 foot level. Did I forget anything? I don't think so. GA_googleFillSlot("ATB_Art_Bathrooms_CeramicTile_BTF_MidContent_300x250"); Which Wall First? It is time to tile. Which wall are you going to do first? As you enter your tub or shower you generally are facing a wall. On a standard tub it is the 5 foot long wall that you look at. This is where you begin. Why? Because when you fit the final cut pieces on the two short walls, you will not see the gap as distinctly as you would on the long wall. It has to do with the angle at which your eye is looking at the corner as you stand outside the tiled area. Layout Different walls are laid out differently. You want the tile to be balanced wherever possible, but you also want to minimize cuts and narrow pieces. Find the center point on the long 5 foot wall of your tub area. Using two pieces of tile with no adhesive, start the edge of the first tile at the mark and begin to leap frog the tile going towards one corner. You will eventually end up with a partial tile. If the size of the piece is less than 1/3rd of a full tile, then you should start your first tile so that the CENTER of the tile is on your halfway mark on the wall. This will ensure that you end with a fairly large tile as you end at each corner. The side walls are different. When the tile ends outside the shower or tub area you usually use a trim tile. You don't want a cut tile next to the trim tile. You always have a full tile start adjacent to the trim tile and then work towards the inside corner of the large wall. Trim Tile Determine where your trim tile will be. For standard tubs, I often have the trim tile hug the front panel of the tub. Measure the width of your trim tile and make a mark where the grout line will be that separates the edge of the trim tile and the first full standard tile. You need the starting line here because the full tile goes up first and the trim tile is last. Plumb Lines Once you have determined your starting points use a sharp pencil to mark perfectly plumb vertical lines. Your tile is going to follow these lines up the wall no matter what so they better be right. First Row Before you can start, you need to determine where your first horizontal row will start. Tubs, shower pans, etc. are never perfectly level. They can be twisted or simply put in by a not-so-exact plumber who has never done tile work! Tile is unforgiving. You must install the tile level and plumb. I like to install my first row of tile about 1 and 3/4 inches above the tub or shower pan surface. This way I can get two cut pieces of tile from every full tile if I am using standard 4 inch tile. Using the level, you mark a perfectly level line on all three walls. Take your lattice strip and tack it into place on this line. The lattice strip serves as a shelf that supports the tile as you lay it up the wall. Once you finish at the top of the wall, you remove the lattice and install the pieces against the tub last. Spacing the Tiles How do you keep the grout lines straight? Simple, standard wall tiles have very small bumps on each edge that create the thin lines for your grout. Old tiles didn't have this feature and tile setters used string in between their tiles. How High? How high up the wall should you go? I prefer to end up about 6.5 feet off the bathroom floor. However, your plumber may foil this plan. Keep in mind the shower head arm. Tile looks better if you stop below this point or 4 inches above it. Mounting Accessories Towel bars, soap dishes, etc. are not simply glued in place. You need to knock a little hole in the cement board directly in line with the casting holes you often see behind these pieces. Mix some plaster of Paris and quickly gob it into both holes and stick the accessory in place. It is OK to use adhesive in conjunction with the plaster. You need to tape the accessory in place for 24 hours or it will fall from the wall. Soap Dishes in Weird Places I always put a soap dish on the wall directly above the water faucet. Think, you face the water valve as you shower....so why not have the soap in front of you and at a location so you don't have to bend. Marble Shampoo Shelves White marble is very inexpensive. I love installing corner shelves in bath tubs and long, three inch wide shelves in 36 inch shower stalls. These ledges are perfect for shampoo! The Right Sponge Before you grout, get the right sponge. Tile stores sell these. The sponge must be one with small holes and no sharp edges. All corners and edges must be rounded. Sharp edges dig grout from the tile joints. Grouting Grouting is simple. Mix it up until it resembles cake icing. Apply it with the grout float. Use the float to remove as much as possible from the wall. Always strike the grout joints at a 45 degree angle so you don't bulldoze grout from the joints. Use a sponge that has all the water squeezed from it to wipe excess grout from the walls. Rinse the sponge frequently and use light stokes. The biggest reason grout fails - and rookies often have grout failures - is because they mix the grout too thin and/or they use too much water when they are rinsing the grout from the joints. The water thins the cement in the grout and makes it weak. Also, work in small four square foot sections as you begin to grout. Once you get the hang of it you can do larger sections. Rinsing the sponge frequently and using light pressure as you glide across the joints is the key to good looking, consistently sized joints. Caulking The corners and the contact point between the first row of tile and the tub and shower should not be grouted. You can scrap out the grout with a thin screw driver before it gets hard, as it is virtually impossible to keep grout from getting into those areas. These places need to be caulked. Use a mildewproof water based caulk for these locations. They are available. Don't caulk these seams until the grout has dried for 24 hours. Before you caulk, use an old cotton T shirt to polish the tile. This will remove all grout dust and film from the tiles.MikeTue, 25 Nov 2008 23:33:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:9http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/7/Understanding-bathroom-remodeling-design.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=7http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=7&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/7/Understanding-bathroom-remodeling-design.aspxUnderstanding Bathroom Remodeling Design November 21st, 2008 Posted in Bathroom DIY Bathroom Remodeling Design Everyone usually ends up remodeling their bathroom sooner or later. They may get tired of the way it looks, or they may have to do some repairs. Bathroom remodeling is as simple as you make it.   Making more space in your bathroom may include installing shelves under the sink or over the toilet. You can even install shelves around the bathtub; they make small corner shelves now that just screw into the wall at one or both ends of the bathtub. You can also purchase a shelf rack that will hang from your showerhead. Bathroom Remodel If you want to use paint instead of wall tiles, use pastel colors to give the bathroom more of a warm secure feeling. Some colors have been proven to actually set a mood when you walk into the bathroom. And a mixture of certain colors will bring out more than one mood. If you are planning to do the bathroom remodeling yourself; first make a list of what you would want your new bathroom to look like. You should always start with a theme, or a color scheme. Starting this way will give you an advantage, because once you chose a theme or particular colors, you can work everything else into it. To make your bathroom look larger than it actually is put a few throw rugs down and you could put a flower shelf at the window or artificial flowers depending on the lighting. Placing mirrors on darker walls will help brighten the bathroom up by reflecting the light from other parts of the room. If you need more light over the sink for close up shaving or putting on cosmetics, just install another medicine chest that has lights and an individual switch to turn the lights on and off instead of at the wall. However, you could also wire the lights on the medicine chest to come on when the wall switch is turned on. This usually affects the power bill, and that would be up to your discretion whether to do that. Splashboards are a protective covering around sinks and bathtubs to help keep water from damaging the walls and the under lying lumber. You can purchase pre-constructed splashboards that will allow you to go so high, or you may choose to make a splashboard yourself. You can use a sheet of Formica, plastic or a water resistant metal, such as stainless steel. And you can decide for yourself how high and how wide you would like the splashboard to be.MikeMon, 24 Nov 2008 23:02:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:7http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/6/Painting-tips.aspx#Comments0http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/RssComments.aspx?TabID=87&ModuleID=433&ArticleID=6http://mhmremodeling.com/DesktopModules/DnnForge%20-%20NewsArticles/Tracking/Trackback.aspx?ArticleID=6&PortalID=0&TabID=87http://mhmremodeling.com/HelpfulLinks/TipsTrends/RemodelingTips/tabid/87/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/6/Painting-tips.aspxPainting Tips and Tools Painting tools define what type of surface, technique and texture you’re trying to accomplish. The articles below will help you understand the different kinds of paint applicators, how to select quality paint, how to prevent common painting problems, what to do when it’s time to clean up, and what materials are an essential part of any painting project.   Paint Applicator Overview Brushes, Rollers, Pads and Specialty Tools Brushing Up on Paint Applicators Great Paint Jobs are Made with the Right Paint Applicators Paint Applicators FAQs Paint with the Right Tools Paint Brushes Bristle or Synthetic Filament Brushes Brush Up Your Paint Brush Knowledge Helpful Paint Brush Hints for Homeowners Selecting and Storing Paint Brushes Selecting the Right Paint Applicator for Your Project The Basics of Brush Cleaning When a Brush Stands on Its Painting Tip Paint Clean Up and Removal Back to Nature Ready-Strip - Safer Paint and Varnish Remover Before You Repaint, Try a Quick Clean Up Clean Up Part # 2 - More Tips on Paint Clean Up Cleaning Up After Painting a Room Cleaning Up With Drop Cloths and Rags How to Remove Paint Manually Stripping Paint from Old Doors, Doorframes, Windows, and Baseboards Painting Leftovers Stripping Paint from Wood Surfaces What You Should Know About Using Paint Strippers Your Paint Project is Done … But Not Quite Yet Paint Quality and Safety   Answers About Lead in Paint Home Improvement Project Paint Selection Guide How To Read a Product Label Selecting the Right Paint Type The Differences Between Good and Cheap Paint Types of Paint: The Unvarnished Truth Types of Painting Chemicals and the Purpose they Serve What Makes a Quality Paint? Painting Supplies Essential Tools and Materials for Painting Projects Painting Tips: Choosing the Right Tools Shopping at Your Local Decorating Center Shopping List of Essential Materials for Exterior Painting Painting Tips A Guide to Wall Stenciling Correcting Common Paint Problems Flaking Paint Paint by Magic! Painting Problems Roller Marks Spot Peeling MikeSun, 23 Nov 2008 23:53:00 GMTf1397696-738c-4295-afcd-943feb885714:6